Classic nkawm khau yog lub hauv paus ntawm lub wardrobe, lawv tuaj yeem hais ntau txog tus txiv neej dua li lwm yam khoom ntawm khaub ncaws. Tam sim no zam tsis yog nruj raws li nws tau siv los ua, thiab khau khiab rau kev hnav khaub ncaws yuav tsis tho txawv txhua. Universal qauv kuj tau tshwm sim uas zoo sib npaug hauv chaw ua haujlwm thiab ntawm cov xwm txheej tsis raug cai. Niaj hnub no peb yuav tham txog sab saum toj peb txiv neej khau - brogues, oxfords, derbies. Qhov sib txawv ntawm cov qauv no rau cov tsis muaj kev paub yog xyaum tsis pom, tab sis tib lub sijhawm nws muaj.
Ib zaug txhua lub sijhawm classic
Muaj ntau cov lus qhia uas siv tau hais txog oxfords, tab sis ib txwm nrog cov lus hais ua ntej feem ntau: classic tshaj plaws, stylish tshaj plaws, nruj tshaj plaws, feem ntau tsoos thiab ua lag luam. Kev ua kom zoo nkauj thiab kev coj ua nruj yog cuam tshuam nrog ntau tus neeg hauv tebchaws Askiv. Yog lawm, vim hais tias cov poj koob yawm txwv ntawm Oxfords thawj zaug tuaj rau hauv kev zam nyob rau ntawd. Lawvcov progenitors yog balmorals (daim duab hauv qab no), muaj npe tom qab lub tsev fuabtais Scottish Balmoral. Nyob rau hauv lem, lawv predecessors yog Oxford khau looj plab hlaub, nrov nyob rau hauv 1800 nyob rau hauv lub qub European lub tsev kawm ntawv, tom qab uas lawv tau txais lawv lub npe.
Hauv Teb Chaws Asmeskas, balmorals thiab oxfords yog qhov sib txawv, thaum nyob hauv UK, qhov qub yog suav tias yog qhov hloov pauv ntawm qhov kawg vim qhov ploj ntawm qhov plooj plooj ntawm khau raj welt.
Derby
Derby nkawm khau tsis raug cai. Lawv suav hais tias yog ib qho qauv khau universal. Hauv tebchaws Askiv lawv feem ntau hu ua "bluechers". Cov khau tau txais lawv lub npe, raws li ib tug version, nyob rau hauv Honor ntawm Marshal Blucher los ntawm Prussia, uas, nrog rau nws cov tub rog, koom nyob rau hauv lub sib ntaus sib tua ntawm Waterloo. Cov tub rog, raws li cov lus dab neeg, hnav cov khau qub qub nrog qhib lacing, uas, tom qab ntawd tau hloov mus ua khau.
Yuav ua li cas yog brogging
Nws yooj yim kom tsis meej pem los ntawm ntau hom khau qauv. Tau pib sib tham txog qhov sib txawv ntawm derbies, oxfords thiab brogues, ib qho nthuav dav yuav tsum tau hais. Brogues yog perforated. Cov txheej txheem ntawm kev thov tus qauv los ntawm perforating qhov ntawm ntau qhov ntau thiab tsawg yog hu ua broaching. Nws tuaj yeem nqa tawm ob qho tib si ntawm derby thiab ntawm oxfords.
Punching qhov hauv nkawm khau yog txhob txwm pib nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 17th los ntawm Irish nyuj ua liaj ua teb. Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm brogging ces yog tshem tawm cov dej los ntawm ko taw thiab nws cov cua nrawm. Maj mam, tus qauv tau nrov nrog cov neeg yos hav zoov thiab cov neeg taug kev, thiab tom qab ntawd nrog cov aristocracy. Lub sijhawm no, cov tsos ntawm cov brogues niaj hnub tau tsim. Kev nplij siab, kev ua tau zoo thiab kev ua tau zoo - peb qhov zoo no tau ua rau muaj kev nyiam ntawm khau.
Yog li, qhov sib txawv ntawm oxfords thiab brogues, derbies thiab brogues nyob rau hauv me me perforations ntawm pob taws thiab ntiv taw. Qhov tseeb, lawv tsis yog cov khau nyias nyias, lawv tsuas yog ib txoj hauv kev los kho lawv xwb.
Tim brogues
Lub sijhawm dhau mus, qhov xav tau los ntawm kev sib tsoo tau ploj mus thiab cov punctures tau ua kom zoo nkauj. Lawv yog siv nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ib tug openwork qauv nyob rau saum npoo ntawm nkawm khau. Nyob ntawm cov txheej txheem, muaj peb hom:
- Pob brogues. Hauv qhov no, tag nrho saum npoo ntawm cov khau yog perforated.
- Semi-brogues. Cov punctures me me tsuas yog nyob rau ntawm tus ntiv taw uas tshem tau thiab muab tso rau hauv ib qho qauv tshwj xeeb.
- Qub brogues. Perforation yog tam sim no nyob rau hauv seams.
Derby, brogues thiab oxfords: qhov txawv ntawm qhov tsos
Oxfords yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev kaw lacing. Lub vamp (pem hauv ntej ntawm lub khau raj) yog sewn hla lub berets (sab qhov chaw) khi nrog lacing.
Nyob hauv derby, qhov ntxeev yog qhov tseeb. Lub lacing ntawm hom khau no yog qhib, cov berets yog sewn tshaj vamp. Yog li ntawd, lub sidewalls flare dawb rau ob sab thaum lub laces untied.
Thaum xub thawj, ob hom khau yog yam ntxwv tshwj xeeb rau txiv neej wardrobe. Txawm li cas los xij, hauv 20s ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem, thawj cov poj niam oxfords thiab brogues tshwm sim. Yeej tsis muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm tus txiv neej thiab poj niam qauv. Tsuas yog tom kawg raug tso tawm hauv lub heevntau yam xim. Hauv tebchaws Russia, qhov kev ntshaw rau oxfords ntawm cov poj niam tau pom nyob rau xyoo 2010.
Yuav hnav dab tsi nrog derbies, brogues thiab oxfords
Ntau tus tsis paub tias nyob rau hauv rooj plaub ntawm derbies, brogues thiab oxfords, qhov sib txawv kuj siv rau kev hnav khaub ncaws. Tsis yog txhua tus qauv zoo sib npaug nrog cov ris tsho classic thiab ris ntauv txhav. Muaj qee qhov yuav tsum tau ua, thiab nws yuav muaj txiaj ntsig los coj lawv mus rau hauv tus account.
Tus qauv classic thiab nruj tshaj plaws yog oxfords. Cov khau dub uas tsis muaj perforations thiab cov ntsiab lus zoo nkauj yog hnav nrog ib qho hnav ris tsho lossis tuxedo, tailcoat. Ua los ntawm tawv tawv xim av, zoo meej rau hnav txhua hnub. Cov poj niam, ntawm qhov tod tes, tuaj yeem hnav oxfords txhua lub sijhawm thiab nrog txhua yam.
Derby tuaj yeem hu ua qhov ntxeev ntawm Oxfords. Cov khau yog ntau yam. Cov qauv hauv cov xim dub thiab xim av yuav haum rau kev lag luam nruj. Derbies ua los ntawm cov tawv mos mos, nrog cov xim ntxig, hauv cov xim ci, zoo kawg nkaus ua tiav cov ris tsho los yog paj rwb chinos. Cov khau khau liab yog nrov heev. Xws li derbies ntxiv brightness thiab originality rau daim duab. Lawv txoj hmoo yog cov khaub ncaws tsis raws cai: slacks, ris ntauv txhav.
Derby yog qhov chaw koj tuaj yeem yuav ib khub thiab ua khub nrog txhua yam hauv koj lub khaub ncaws. Muaj tseeb, kev nyiam yuav tsum tau muab rau qhov tsawg tshaj plaws pretentious monophonic qauv. Qhov no yog qhov txawv ntawm derbies thiab oxfords.
Brogues tuav txoj haujlwm nruab nrab. Raws li twb tau hais lawm, perforations tuaj yeem siv rau ob qho tib si oxfords thiab derbies. Nws yuav tsum nco ntsoov tias xws li décor ntawm nkawm khau tam sim ntawdtxo cov degree ntawm nws officiality. Stylists tsis pom zoo kom hnav brogues nrog cov qauv kev cai. Lawv feem ntau sib haum xeeb ua ke nrog tweed los yog woolen suits, tsho hauv xws li style.
Oxfords, derbies thiab brogues tsis pom zoo kom hnav nrog cov ris tsho nruj thiab nruj nruj. Qhov kev sib xyaw ua ke no yuav ntxhov siab rau qhov sib npaug thiab kev sib haum xeeb, ob txhais ceg yuav zoo li loj heev.
Tus txiv neej oxfords thiab brogues nqi npaum li cas
Qhov sib txawv ntawm tus nqi yog txiav txim los ntawm ob yam: cov khoom siv thiab hom. Classic oxfords yeej ib txwm tau sewn los ntawm cov tawv tawv zoo. Txawm li cas los xij, lub sijhawm hloov pauv. Tam sim no koj tuaj yeem nrhiav tau ntawm cov qauv muag ntawm patent tawv, suede, leatherette los yog ua ke ntawm cov ntaub ntawv. Cov xim classic ntawm tus qauv yog xim av tsaus thiab dub. Cov qauv classic tuaj yeem pom ntawm cov tuam txhab khau ntev: Crockett & Jones, Santoni, Edward Green, Cheaney, Wolverine thiab Barrett. Npaj rau qhov tseeb tias koj yuav tau them nyiaj zoo rau cov khoom ntawm cov neeg tseem ceeb hom. Tus nqi ntawm oxfords (daim duab) los ntawm Crockett & Jones pib los ntawm 395 euros.
Tau kawg, hauv kev lag luam loj nws muaj kev ywj pheej ntau dua. Cov khau tawv tiag tiag raug nqi ntawm peb mus rau plaub txhiab rubles.
Nruab nrab ntawm derby, brogues thiab oxfords, muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm tus nqi nyob ntawm tus qauv. Classics yeej ib txwm kim dua, tab sis tsis yog ntau. Feem ntau koj tuaj yeem soj ntsuam ntau npaum li cas tus nqi ntawm ib yam khoom hloov pauv nyob ntawm cov qauv kev zam. Txawm li cas los xij, qhov no tsis yog li ntawd, classic oxfords, derbies thiab brogues yeej ib txwm xav tau. Piv txwv li, BritishTom ntej no muab nws cov neeg siv khoom txhua tus qauv ntawm tus nqi ntawm plaub mus rau tsib txhiab rubles.
