Thaum nws los txog rau xyoo pua 18th khaub ncaws, ib yam tsis sib tham: nws tsis xis nyob. Txhua tus neeg sawv cev ntawm poj niam ib nrab hlub style. Lawv xaiv ib tug ua tib zoo xav-tawm thiab tsis devoid ntawm lawv zest duab. Txawm li cas los xij, nws puas tsim nyog? Nws yog dab tsi uas fizhma, panniers, corsets thiab lwm yam cwj pwm ntxiv rau cov tsos uas pua pua ntawm cov kev zoo nkauj tiv thaiv cov zam fads?
Nyob zoo ib tsoom niam txiv kwv tij neej tsa sawv daws.
Ib yam li cov qauv kev zoo nkauj tau hloov pauv hauv lub xyoo pua 18th, cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws zoo li ntawd. Nws tau xav tias cov kev hloov pauv no yog qhov tshwm sim ntawm Kev Txawj Ntse, uas tau pib hauv Fabkis tab sis sai sai kis thoob plaws hauv Tebchaws Europe. Cov qauv ntawm lub cev rau cov poj niam tau hloov lawv cov duab. Tam sim no cov neeg uas hais txog lawv lub duav tag nrho thiab, hloov pauv, lawv lub duav me me, tau suav hais tias zoo nkauj. Qhov no ua tau ua tsaug rau kev hnav ntawm "pob tawb" - dav hoops uas ncab mus rau sab. Lawv muab kev txhawb nqa rau ntev, puffy skirts thiab voluminous dresses ntawm lub era thiab xav tau kev pab sab nraud ntawm hnav khaub ncaws.
Lawv kuj sim "ntuj" kev hlub ntawm poj niam. Lub peev xwm ua yeeb yam zoo nkauj thiab yooj yim ostentatious, txawm tias cov ris tsho hauv qab loj heev, yog ib qho kev kawm txawj thiab qhov qhia txog kev sib raug zoo. Nws yog lub npe hu hais tias xws figs los ntawm lub sij hawm ntawm lawv cov tsos yog lub ntsiab ntawm kev thuam. Lawv raug thuam tsuas yog los ntawm cov txiv neej, tab sis cov lus iab liam tsis tshua muaj txiaj ntsig rau kev muaj koob meej.
Yuav ua li cas yog panniers thiab panniers
Panier (panier) yog txhais los ntawm Fabkis ua "lub tawb". Nyob rau hauv lub teb chaws Yelemees thiab Russia lawv tau hu ua figs (German Fischbein - whalebone, ntses pob txha). Lub thav duab tau tsim los ntawm whalebone daim hlau, willow los yog steel rods, reed stems thiab ua hauj lwm raws li ib txoj kev ntxiv splendor rau lub tiab. Nws yog qhov zoo kawg uas cov fijma tau nce lub tiab mus rau ib qho thiab ib nrab metres hauv qhov dav. Cov earliest versions dai ntawm lub cev thiab tsim ib lub tswb zoo rau dresses. Cov tom qab no tau nplawm, tsuas yog khi rau ntawm lub duav.
Ntau xyoo lawv kuj tau nce dav. Cov duab kos duab qhia tau hais tias nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, ib txhia poj niam hnav yuav luag ob-meter tso tsheb hlau luam, thiab hais tias xws li hoops widened lub tiab los ntawm ob sab, tawm hauv pem hauv ntej thiab nram qab lub tiaj tus. Qhov no muab qhov chaw txaus nyob qhov twg cov qauv woven, intricate embellishments thiab nplua nuj paj ntaub tuaj yeem tshwm thiab txaus siab rau.
History of tshwm sim
Tus qauv pib los ntawm 17th-xyoo pua Spanish tsev hais plaub hnav khaub ncaws ntau hauv Velázquez cov duab. Zam tau nrov hauv Fabkis, thiab tom qab ntawd1718–1719: kuv thiab nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe thaum ib co Spanish dresses tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv Paris.
Ib txhia ntseeg tias cov tans no tuaj hauv lub teb chaws Yelemees los yog Askiv, txij li thaum lawv muaj los ntawm 1710 hauv Great Britain thiab txawm tshwm sim ntawm Fabkis lub tsev hais plaub nyob rau xyoo kawg ntawm kev kav ntawm Louis XIV.
Nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 18th, ib tug poj niam hnav ris tsho yeej ib txwm ua tau ib tug impressive pom thiab coj mus rau peb lub sij hawm ntau npaum li ib tug txiv neej. Hauv qhov xwm txheej hnyav tshaj plaws, daim tiab skeletal tuaj yeem ncab ob peb taw ntawm txhua sab. Los ntawm 1780s, lawv tsuas yog hnav thaum lub sijhawm tseem ceeb thiab ua ib feem ntawm lub tsev hais plaub zam.