Twill yog ib lub npe nrov rau tag nrho pawg ntawm cov ntaub uas muaj cov yam ntxwv zoo li thiab cov khoom siv zoo sib xws. Ua ntej ntawm tag nrho cov, nws yog ib lub teeb thiab qab ntxiag rau kov cov khoom ntawm ib tug kab pheeb ces kaum weave nrog ib tug luv luv pawg. Muaj txoj hauv kev txhim khu kev qha kom paub qhov txawv ntawm twill los ntawm lwm cov ntaub: koj yuav tsum tau saib nws los ntawm lub kaum sab xis me ntsis kom tus yam ntxwv kab pheeb ces kaum pom meej meej.
keeb kwm me ntsis
Qhov twg thiab thaum twg twill tau tsim thawj zaug tsis paub meej. Thawj qhov hais txog nws muaj nyob rau hauv phau ntawv sau txog keeb kwm keeb kwm "Nco ntsoov Windsor", sau los ntawm huab tais Askiv Edward VIII. Raws li ib tug comic zaj dab neeg nws hais, nyob ib ncig ntawm 1830 rolls ntawm twill ntaub, hu ua Tweels los ntawm cov tub lag luam, raug xa mus rau London tub lag luam los ntawm lub Scottish lub zos ntawm Hawick. Parsing tsab ntawv, ib tug inattentive Englishman txiav txim siab tias nws yog ib tug Tweed ntaub, uas tau txais nws lub npe los ntawm tus dej ntawm tib lub npe, uas ntws los ntawm ib cheeb tsam nrog ib tug tsim textile kev lag luam.
Cov ntaub twill xa tau dav tshaj tawm thiab muag raws li lub npe tweed. Lub npe no tau raug xa mus rau nws, thiab qhov yuam kev uas tshwm sim tseem ua rau ntau tus neeg tsis paub txog cov nuances ntawm cov ntaub ntawv science.
Kev tshwm sim thiab kev tsim khoom
Niaj hnub nimno twill ntaub yog ib tug twill weave uas ci ntsa iab thiab mos rau qhov kov. Cov khoom qub ntawm nws yog tsim los ntawm kev hloov cov qauv weaving los ntawm 1 xov nrog txhua weft insertion. Kev taw qhia ntawm kab pheeb ces kaum tuaj yeem yog txoj cai (zoo) lossis sab laug (tsis zoo). Feem ntau feem ntau fabrics nrog txoj kab pheeb ces kaum yog tsim. Piv txwv li, twill rau ris tsho yog tsim los ntawm kev sib tw sab xis-tes twill (RHT) lossis herringbone qauv.
Twill weave tuaj yeem muaj 3 lossis ntau dua xov rov ua dua. Nyob ntawm tus naj npawb, qhov ceev thiab hom xov uas siv los tsim cov khoom, ob qho tib si qhov dav thiab qhov loj ntawm qhov caws pliav ntawm nws txawv. Ntawm cov ntaub nrog cov ntaub ntawv me me, nws yuav luag tsis pom, yog li cov twill no tuaj yeem nyias nyias. Nws feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov paj rwb-raws li sib xyaw fibers. Qhov no yog qhov nrov heev twill satin ntaub, uas yog dav siv niaj hnub no rau kev tsim cov ntaub pua chaw pw, yog tsim.
Qhov kev sib raug zoo siab dua, qhov pom tseeb thiab qhov khoob qhov caws pliav. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, qhov ntom ntawm xws li twill txo qis, yog li qhov sib txawv ntawm cov twill weave yog siv rau cov ntaub npuag denser. Feem ntau hom yog tweed, chinno thiab gabardine.
Composition
Twill ntaub, uas tuaj yeem pom nyob rau hauv ib phau ntawv kawm ntawm cov ntaub ntawv tshawb fawb, yog thawj zaug ua los ntawm paj rwb lossis ntaub plaub. Nyob rau hauv lub neej yav tom ntej, txhawm rau txhim kho cov neeg siv khoom, ntau lub tuam txhab pib ntxiv spandex fiber ntau rau nws cov muaj pes tsawg leeg. Maj mam, qhov kev faib ua feem ntawm cov hluavtaws fibers hauv cov khoom tau nce mus rau ob feem peb. Tias yog vim li cas niaj hnub twill yog cov ntaub sib xyaw uas muaj los ntawm 30 txog 65% polyester.
Properties
Twill ntaub yog ib qho ntawm ob peb cov ntaub uas yog ob qho tib si ntom thiab drapes zoo. Vim lub siab ceev ntawm threads, twill muaj zoo hnav tsis kam thiab durability, zoo tiv thaiv plua plav. Tsis tas li ntawd, nws yog tus yam ntxwv los ntawm ntau yam khoom zoo, uas yog:
- virtually tsis wrinkle;
- tsis ua rau muaj kev fab tshuaj thaum sib cuag nrog daim tawv nqaij;
- moisture resistant;
- breathable;
- tsis ncab nrog kev ntxuav tsis tu ncua;
- tsis deform thiab tuav nws cov duab zoo;
- dries sai.
Twill fabric characterizes tsis tau tsuas yog ib tug zoo nkauj tsos thiab siab neeg siv khoom, tab sis kuj muaj ntau yam xim. Feem ntau, twill yog tsim los dawb-dyed. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv no, nws sab pem hauv ntej tau pronounced kab pheeb ces kaum kab txaij ntawm ntau yam dav. Nws cov qauv ntom ntom ua kom zoo dyeing thiab tso cai rau cov twill khaws cov xim zoo nkauj rau lub sijhawm ntev thaum siv.
khaub ncaws thiab khoom siv twill
Feem ntau cov txiv neej thiab poj niam lub ris tsho, tiab thiab tsho yog sewn los ntawm twill. Qee qhov ntawm nws hom yog siv los ua kom nruj poj niam hnav khaub ncaws. Tag nrho cov khoom twill muaj cov tsos zoo, yog li lawv feem ntau yog siv los ua cov khaub ncaws lossis chaw ua haujlwm.
Cov tsho hnav khaub ncaws hnav thiab cov tsho tiv nag feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov khoom siv tiv thaiv dej, uas tso cai rau lawv khaws lawv cov duab mus ntev. Twill feem ntau yog siv los xaws txhua yam ntawm cov khaub ncaws thiab cov khaub ncaws tshwj xeeb uas muaj zog ntxiv. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv lub Soviet xyoo, tag nrho cov hnav ris tsho tub ceev xwm cov khaub ncaws tsuas yog ua los ntawm gabardine, uas yog ib tug ntawm ntau yam ntawm twill.
Twill npuag, tshuaj xyuas uas qhia tias nws yog cov khoom hnav-tiv taus, yog dav siv rau kev tsim khoom thiab kho kom zoo nkauj ntawm cov rooj tog zaum. Durability thiab wrinkle kuj tseem ua rau muaj kev siv tshiab rau twill, uas tam sim no tau siv los ua cov hnab tsim qauv zoo nkauj.