Nyob hauv tsab ntawv no, cia peb tham txog qhov tshwm sim xws li "niche perfumery". Lub tswv yim no tsis paub zoo rau cov pej xeem, thiab tsis yog qhov xav tsis thoob yog tias koj tsis paub tias nws yog dab tsi. Nws yog lub sijhawm kom paub koj tus kheej nrog cov lus no thiab paub seb cov tshuaj tsw qab zoo li cas (xaiv) txawv ntawm cov khoom kim heev thiab cov tshuaj tsw qab.
Ntxim nyiam tsw ntxhiab tsw zoo li cas
Koj puas nyiam tsw thiab muaj ob peb "qab" npuas ntawm koj lub tsev tshuaj pleev ib ce? Cov npe no yog dab tsi?
Yog tias peb saib mus rau hauv ntau lub tsev ntawm ib lub tsev zoo tib yam hauv ib lub nroog, feem ntau peb yuav ntsib cov npe uas feem ntau tshwm hauv TV lossis hauv cov ntawv xov xwm glossy. Dior, Dolce Gabanna, Versace… Cov npe no tsis tawm ntawm nplooj ntawv xov xwm, thiab txawm tias cov menyuam yaus uas nyeem tsis tau cov lus no. Yog li, zam hom uas muaj npe nrov thoob plaws lub ntiaj teb tsis yog niche perfumes. Nws hloov tawm tias cov tshuaj tsw qab tau muab faib ua peb pawg, uas txawv hauvnqe, koob meej thiab, ntawm chav kawm, lawv tsw zoo li cas.
Mass market, khoom kim heev thiab niche perfumes
Nws yog qhov tseeb tias lub cav ntawm kev lag luam yog kev tshaj tawm. Nws yog kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov neeg lag luam uas txiav txim siab 90% ntawm yam uas yuav zam tau rau lub caij tshiab thiab yam koj yuav yuav koj tus kheej ntawm khaub ncaws lossis tshuaj pleev ib ce kom muaj kev ntseeg siab. Kev tshaj tawm kuj txhawb cov naj hoom. Koj imperceptibly, nyob rau hauv tus cwj pwm ntawm zoo nkauj kev lag luam thiab cov duab txawv txawv nyob rau hauv lub magazine, ua ntej ntawm tag nrho cov mus rau tej hom nyob rau hauv lub khw thiab xaiv ib yam dab tsi rau koj saj.
Yog li, thawj thiab feem ntau pawg ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab - kev lag luam loj, lossis cov khoom siv. Cov naj hoom zoo li no feem ntau muag hauv cov khw muag khoom loj, cov khw muag tshuaj pleev ib ce, thiab vim qhov kev thov siab, kuj tseem nyob hauv cov khw muag khoom me me thiab kev hloov pauv. Nws tsis yog qhov nyuaj rau fake li perfumes, thiab fakes yog muag nrog ib tug bang, vim hais tias cov aromas paub rau txhua leej txhua tus - txij li thaum yau mus rau laus. Cov ntxhiab tsw yog tsis complex, qab ntxiag thiab yooj yim distinguishable. Curiously, rov qab rau hauv lub xyoo pua xeem, cov tsev zam tau npaj cov tshuaj tsw qab rau 2-3 xyoos, thiab tam sim no lawv tso lawv ib zaug ib lub caij. Nws yog lub lag luam loj uas feem ntau yuav, nws nyob li ntawm 75% ntawm kev ua lag luam.
Khoom kim heev perfumes raug nqi ntau dua li cov naj hoom hauv khw, tab sis kuj tau tshaj tawm. Ua piv txwv, peb tuaj yeem hais cov cim lag luam Chanel, Guerlain, thiab cov tshuaj tsw qab yog tsim feem ntau los ntawm cov tsev zam. Txawm li cas los xij, cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub thiab cov tshuaj tsw qab hauv tsev tsis poob qab, thiab cov ntxhiab tsw tshiab yog ib puas feem pua nyob rau hauv txoj kab nrog kev zam. Yog vim li cas? Qhov tseeb yog tias perfumers,Cov neeg tsim khoom lag luam ua cov kev tshawb fawb ntau ntawm cov neeg tuaj saib ua ntej tso tawm, txheeb xyuas qhov nyiam thiab kev cia siab. Leej twg tsim cov naj hoom khoom kim heev? Feem ntau, tag nrho cov tub rog ntawm cov neeg tsim khoom sawv tom qab ib txoj haujlwm tshiab, uas nruj me ntsis ua raws li cov lus qhia. Perfumers tsis tuaj yeem tsim thiab tso siab rau lub zog ntawm tus ntsuj plig, vim tias lawv tsim cov khoom lag luam uas yuav yog ib puas feem pua ntawm cov neeg siv khoom xav tau.
Selective - lub tswv yim tshiab ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab
Niche perfumery yog tsim los ntawm cov tib neeg - perfumers uas tsis ua raws li leej twg qhov kev cia siab. Perfumes tsis txawv ntawm lawv cov nqi (feem ntau niche perfumes tuaj yeem raug nqi ntau npaum li khoom kim heev novelties), tab sis los ntawm lawv "suab" thiab cov khoom xyaw. Rau kev xaiv perfumery, tsuas yog cov khoom siv zoo raw khoom siv, uas tso cai rau cov ntxhiab tsw qhib rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij nrog kev npaj txhij txog ci ntsa iab - qhov no yog qhov txiav txim siab tus nqi ntawm cov khoom. Tsis tas li ntawd, rau qee qhov haujlwm, cov khoom kim heev yog siv rau hauv kev tsim cov ntim khoom, xws li kub, ntoo tshwj xeeb lossis pob zeb zoo nkauj. Tab sis txawv txawv ntim yog ib qho kev zam. Nyob rau hauv thawj qhov chaw nyob rau hauv lub xaiv yog tshuaj tsw qab - nws yog nws leej twg yog tus txiav txim nyob rau hauv lub niche perfumery. Cov npe nrov tshaj plaws ntawm cov kev xaiv yog Penhaligon's, Jo Malone, Montale, Creed, Le Labo, M. Micallef, Amouage, Parfums de Rosine, Byredo, Fragonard, Frederic Malle, Kilian, Serge Lutens.
Ntawm keeb kwm ntawm kev txhim kho perfumery nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua nees nkaum
"Niche perfumery" txhais li cas, peb twb paub lawm, tab sis vim li cas qhov no?ib qho offshoot hauv "flavor case"?
Ua li no, cia peb rov qab mus rau yav dhau los me ntsis. Tsuas yog ib puas xyoo dhau los, perfumery yog ntau ntawm cov neeg tseem ceeb, los yog, cov neeg muaj hwj chim thiab muaj nyiaj. Tab sis nrog kev txhim kho ntawm kev tsim khoom lag luam, thaum cov khoom lag luam pheej yig dua thiab siv tau ntau dua, cov tshuaj tsw qab kuj tseem pheej yig dua. Hauv xyoo 1950 thiab 1960, nws tau dhau los ua muaj rau txhua tus neeg, thiab me ntsis tom qab, los ntawm xyoo 1990, cov tuam txhab pib xav txog yuav ua li cas ntxias tus neeg yuav khoom lawv cov khoom. Tom qab tag nrho, muab ntau tshaj qhov xav tau, thiab yog li perfumers pib ua haujlwm hauv lub npe ntawm cov neeg siv khoom.
Tam sim no lub tsev naj hoom nres tsim ib yam dab tsi, tab sis pib ua ib yam khoom uas ua rau tib neeg xav tau. Cov neeg tsim khoom tiag tiag uas tsis xav ua haujlwm nyob rau hauv qhov txwv nqaim tau mus rau hauv av raws li lub npe ntawm "xaiv perfumery".
Dab tsi ua rau niche perfumery txawv
Yog li, dab tsi yog cov yam ntxwv ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab xws li niche perfumery? Cov khw muag khoom hauv Moscow tau npaj muab kev xaiv rau koj uas muaj cov yam ntxwv hauv qab no: lub aroma tshwj xeeb, cov khoom siv raw zoo tshaj plaws, yuav luag tag tsis muaj kev tshaj tawm, cov ntsiab lus txawv ntawm kev muag khoom.
Fragrance yog thawj thiab tseem ceeb tshaj qhov sib txawv hauv niche perfumery. Yog hais tias lub hom phiaj ntawm cov khoom kim heev perfumery thiab huab hwm coj kev lag luam yog kom txaus siab rau cov neeg siv khoom thiab tsim cov khoom qab zib zoo nkauj tshaj plaws, ces cov neeg tsim khoom xaiv tsis txawm xav txog nws. Niche perfumery tuaj yeem muaj qhov tsis txaus ntseeg "zoo", ob qho tib si ntxim nyiam thiab ntxim nyiam. Xav txog cov ntawv sau ntawm cov luam yeeb ntub dejroj hmab, zib ntab molasses, oud los yog gayak ntoo, musk - cov no yog tag nrho cov niche perfumes. Kev tshuaj xyuas ntawm nws yog qhov sib txawv heev, vim tias cov tshuaj tsw qab tuaj yeem cuam tshuam, ua rau muaj kev ntxhov siab, poob rau hauv kev hlub nrog koj tus kheej lossis tawm tsam, tab sis qhov tseeb tiag - tsis muaj leej twg nyob tsis tswm.
Cov khoom xyaw xaiv
Yog tias cov neeg tsim khoom ntawm "zoo tib yam" perfumery tab tom nrhiav tus nqi ntawm cov khoom, xaiv cov khoom siv hluavtaws uas pheej yig tshaj, cov perfumers ntawm niche cov khoom tsis xav txog nws kiag li. Koj puas paub tias, ib yam li cov cawv txiv hmab zoo, txhua "cov khoom xyaw" ntawm cov naj hoom zoo muaj nws tus yam ntxwv, suav nrog qhov chaw thiab lub sijhawm sau. Yog li, piv txwv li, feem ntau "tsim" txiv kab ntxwv paj paj tau sau nyob rau sab qaum teb Africa lossis Morocco. Yog hais tias ib tug perfumer xav tau ib tsob ntoo Gaiac concentrate, nws yuav mus rau Indonesia rau nws. Nws yog cov khoom siv raw uas feem ntau txiav txim siab tus nqi ntawm cov naj hoom yav tom ntej. Qee hom kev xaiv tshwm sim hauv qhov tsawg heev vim qhov tsis muaj ntawm ib lossis lwm yam khoom.
Ib tiab rau huab tais, lossis hais txog kev ntim khoom
Koj puas xav tau rhinestones thiab glitter? Tom qab ntawd tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau koj - khoom kim heev perfumery thiab kev lag luam loj. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau cov neeg yuav khoom tsis txaus ntseeg, cov teeb meem tshwj xeeb tau tsim hauv cov ntawv xov xwm uas qhia tias lub raj mis naj hoom tau tsim li cas. Funny, puas yog? Lub raj mis nyob rau ntawm txee thaum koj xav tau cov naj hoom!
Raws li kev xaiv, perfumers ua haujlwm ntau dua ntawm cov ntsiab lus dua li ntawm qhov tsos. Feem ntau, cov ntim ntawm niche fragrances zoo li discreet thiab unremarkable, txawm hais tias muaj ib cokev zam. Ib qho piv txwv yog lub hom Martina Micallef, uas nws lub hwj yog xuas tes pleev xim thiab dai kom zoo nkauj nrog pob zeb. Tau kawg, tsis muaj lwm yam tshaj li tus neeg yuav khoom them rau lub ntim.
khoom ntim
Koj xav tias muaj pes tsawg npuas npuas tsim nrog cov tshuaj tsw qab tshiab zoo li Nina Ricci's? Ntau txhiab leej, vim tias cov khoom yuav tsum tau xa mus rau txhua lub khw muag tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab cov khw muag khoom loj! Raws li kev xaiv, kev tsim cov khoom lag luam ncaj qha cuam tshuam nrog cov khoom siv. Yog tias kev tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab xav tau cov khoom siv raw uas tuaj yeem tau txais tsawg kawg nkaus, ces cov chaw tsim khoom tuaj yeem tso tawm ob peb npuas. Yog li ntawd, rau qee yam ntawm cov naj hoom tau sau cia.
muag qhov chaw
Yog koj xav xaiv, maj mus rau lub khw loj loj lossis lub khw muag tshuaj pleev ib ce kom yuav cov tshuaj tsw qab, ces koj yuav poob siab. Niche perfumes tsis tau muag hauv Rive Gauche, tab sis koj tuaj yeem pom lawv hauv cov khw tshwj xeeb. Cov ntsiab lus muag no yog dab tsi?
Hauv qhov tseem ceeb, boutiques nrog cov tshuaj tsw qab yog ib hom "caste" ntawm cov chaw muag tshuaj pleev ib ce. Tsis muaj ntau tus neeg nyob hauv lawv, thiab koj yeej yuav tsis pom cov kab. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov khw no tsis ua rau cov neeg siv khoom txhawb nqa thiab muag khoom. Qhov siab tshaj plaws uas cov neeg siv khoom niaj hnub tuaj yeem suav tau yog tias nws tuaj yeem tau txais ib yam dab tsi los ntawm kev sau da dej ntawm tib hom khoom plig rau cov tshuaj tsw qab xaiv. Raws li txoj cai, tus tswv ntawm lub boutique paub cov neeg siv khoom tsis tu ncua ntawm tus kheej thiab nruab nrab ntawm lawv.kev ntseeg kev sib raug zoo raug tsim.
Tsis txhob ntshai mus tom khw! Yog tias koj xav kov lub ntiaj teb ntawm niche perfumery, ces qhov no yog qhov chaw koj tuaj yeem paub txog cov tshuaj tsw qab. Txawm li cas los xij, koj yuav tsum tsis txhob ua txuj tias koj yog tus neeg yuav khoom tsis zoo, vim tias tus neeg muag khoom yuav pom koj tam sim! Zoo dua lees tias koj tsuas yog xav kawm qee yam ntawm niche perfumery.
Thiab li cas txog tus nqi, tus nqi xaiv perfumery nyob rau hauv Moscow ntau npaum li cas? Tus nqi ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab no tsis tuaj yeem qis dua 2000 rubles ib 20 ml. Tab sis koj yuav tsum lees, qhov no tsis yog nyiaj ntau - tsuas yog rau tib tus nqi koj tuaj yeem yuav, piv txwv li, 100 ml ntawm cov naj hoom nrov thiab tshaj tawm. Yuav xaiv dab tsi yog nyob ntawm koj.
Lwm qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb
Niche thiab xaiv perfumery txawv ntawm cov khoom kim heev thiab cov tshuaj tsw qab loj hauv qhov uas nws tau xyaum tsis tshaj tawm. Qhov no yog li cas nws mus. Thaum muas cov tshuaj tsw qab tshiab lossis nrov uas tsis tawm ntawm nplooj ntawv ci, koj them rau qhov no: kwv yees li 60% rau kev tshaj tawm (kev koom tes ntawm cov qauv thiab cov hnub qub, PR tuam txhab, cov qauv hauv cov ntawv xov xwm thiab khw muag khoom), 30% rau ntim thiab them nyiaj rau ua hauj lwm creators ntawm tsw thiab tsuas yog 10% yog raw khoom.
Qhov xwm txheej nrog niche fragrances txawv kiag li, ib tug yuav hais, diametrically opposite. Kev xaiv yog xyaum tsis tau tshaj tawm, vim nws tsis yog tsim los rau cov neeg siv khoom loj, thiab koj tsis them nyiaj rau kev tshaj tawm lossis rau lub thawv, tab sis rau qhov sib txawv tiag tiag.
Yuav ua li cas xaiv ib lub niche naj hoom rau koj tus kheej
Niche perfumes hauv RiveGosh tsis yog muag, thiab hauv cov khw me me nrog cov qauv xaiv rau txhua hom naj hoom yuav tsis muaj. Tab sis txij li thaum xws li perfumery yog txawv kiag li thiab nws yog tsis yooj yim sua mus yuav rau koj tus kheej yam tsis tau sim ua ntej, ces yuav ua li cas? Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau qhov no muaj castings. Kev xaiv perfumery, vim nws tus nqi siab, tsis muaj rau txhua tus, thiab yog tias koj muaj sijhawm los yuav lub raj mis coveted, ces koj yuav tsum paub tias koj tab tom yuav dab tsi, puas yog?
Hauv khw hauv online thiab hauv cov khw me me koj tuaj yeem yuav cov castings. Xaiv perfumery tsuas yog nchuav rau hauv cov thawv me me tshwj xeeb (atomizers), nrog ntim ntawm 2-5 ml. Nrog rau cov kua muaj txiaj ntsig no, koj tuaj yeem "tshem tawm" cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab txiav txim siab seb koj nyiam cov tshuaj tsw qab lossis tsis.
Puas siv nyiaj rau kev xaiv
Raws li peb tau pom lawm, niche perfumery tsis yog qhov pheej yig. Ib lo lus nug tsim nyog zoo kawg nkaus tshwm sim seb nws puas tsim nyog siv nyiaj rau qhov zoo tshaj plaws raws li kev xaiv. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov ntxhiab tsw yog heev peculiar, thiab tsis yog txhua tus yuav nyiam niche perfumes. Ntawm qhov tod tes, cov hom lag luam yooj yim, xws li cov khw muag khoom loj lossis cov khoom kim heev, tau paub zoo thiab txhua tus neeg nyiam nws.
Zoo, tsis muaj lus teb meej rau lo lus nug no. Kev quav yeeb quav tshuaj los yog qhov tsw hais txog qhov saj ntawm tus neeg thiab nws kab lis kev cai. Nws tsis yog txawm hais txog nyiaj txiag ntawm no, txij li niche perfumes yuav tsis raug nqi ntau dua li cov khoom kim heev. Txawm li cas los xij, qee tus neeg ntawm ib qho chaw hauv lawv lub neej tsuas yog pib tig rov qab rau cov ntxhiab tsw, thiab lawv xav tau ib yam dab tsi ntxiv.
Reviews txogxaiv
Kuv tuaj yeem nrhiav kev tshuaj xyuas ntawm cov vintage lossis ib phau ntawv tsis tshua muaj? Nws yog tseeb hais tias connoisseurs ntawm tej yam xws li tsis sib txuas lus nyob rau hauv lub rooj sab laj thiab tsis tawm lus nyob rau hauv chats. Niche perfumery yog ib yam dab tsi uas sawv saum cov koob meej thiab kev xav ntawm pej xeem. Tau kawg, koj tuaj yeem nrhiav kev tshuaj xyuas zoo li "yog, qhov ntxhiab tsw no yog Vajtswv", tab sis qhov no qhia koj li cas?
Nco ntsoov tias cov ntxhiab tsw qab yog qhov tshwj xeeb thiab tus kheej uas koj tsis tuaj yeem ntseeg lwm tus txoj kev xav. Koj yuav tsum xaiv cov naj hoom rau koj tus kheej, ua raws li koj tus kheej saj thiab lub siab nyiam, thiab tsis yog lwm tus tswv yim. Yog li ntawd, kuv xav ceeb toom koj tawm tsam kev kawm lwm tus neeg txoj kev xav, ua raws li koj tus kheej txoj kev xav thiab kev xav xwb. Txawm li cas los xij, nco ntsoov tias ntawm ntau hom tshuaj tsw qab, koj paub tseeb tias yuav pom qee yam rau koj nyiam.
