Keeb kwm ntawm kev zam yog nplua nuj thiab lom zem heev: txawm nyob rau lub sijhawm qub, cov khaub ncaws sib txawv tau tsim, cov ntaub ntawv tshiab tau tsim, cov ntsiab lus tshiab tau ntxiv rau cov plaub hau, accessories, hniav nyiaj hniav kub ntawm caj dab, tes, pob ntseg. Undoubtedly, ib nrab zoo nkauj ntawm tib neeg yog xav paub ntau tshaj nyob rau hauv zam, tab sis cov txiv neej tsis mus deb ntawm nws ib yam. Yog li ntawd, cov khoom lag luam zam tau nthuav dav txhua xyoo, thiab kev lag luam zam tau ua haujlwm thiab yuav ua haujlwm ntxiv rau tib neeg.
Fashion as a phenomenon
Nws paub tias kev zam yog ib qho ntawm kev sib raug zoo, txij li nws yog lub hom phiaj los ua kom txaus siab rau kev xav zoo nkauj ntawm tib neeg. Thiab cov khoom zam, dhau los, lawv tus kheej ua qauv qhia txog kev sib raug zoo ntawm lawv tus tswv.
Kev zam raws li qhov tshwm sim tau piav qhia thaum ntxov thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, thaum lo lus "kua dej" tshwm sim. Raws li American Thorstein Veblen thiab German Georg Simmel, kev lag luam zam thawj zaug tsom kom paub qhov txawv ntawm cov dav dav.cov pawg ntawm cov neeg tseem ceeb, uas ib txwm sim ua kom txawv ntawm cov neeg zoo tib yam. Yog li ntawd, tag nrho cov tshiab tam sim no tshwm nyob rau hauv cov chav kawm ntawv sab sauv, thiab nruab nrab thiab qis strata ntawm lub zej zog sim ua raws li cov neeg tseem ceeb stratum thiab txais yuav tej yam tshiab los ntawm nws. Nyob rau hauv lwm yam lus, zam tiam sis "kua" los ntawm sab saum toj down thiab tsis ua novelties, tsiv mus rau hauv qeb ntawm "cov neeg siv khoom". Tom qab ntawd dua nws yog ib qho tsim nyog los tsim ib yam dab tsi tshiab thiab zam kom cov neeg tseem ceeb tseem sawv tawm. Muaj ib tug txheej txheem ntawm lub npe hu ua "prestigious noj cycle" uas tsis nres.
Modern Fashion
Hnub no, chav kawm strata hauv zej zog tau xyaum ploj mus, tab sis lub hom phiaj ntawm kev zam tau zoo ib yam - txhawm rau hais txog ib tus neeg koom nrog ib pawg neeg sib raug zoo. Kev lag luam zam niaj hnub tsim cov khoom lag luam xws li cov tub ntxhais hluas zam, txoj hauv kev, chaw ua haujlwm, thiab lwm yam. Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, txhua tus neeg muaj peev xwm xaiv cov khaub ncaws ntawm tus kheej rau nws tus kheej, uas yog ib txoj hauv kev ntawm nws tus kheej. Los ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws fashionably thiab stylishly, koj tuaj yeem sawv tawm ntawm cov neeg coob coob thiab ua qauv qhia rau lwm tus lub xub ntiag ntawm saj thiab tus cwj pwm.
Raws li qhov no, qhov kev txiav txim siab qhia nws tus kheej tias cov khoom zam tsuas yog cov uas tau nthuav tawm, ua qauv qhia.
Fashion
Los ntawm tag nrho cov khoom lag luam, kev lag luam zam tsuas yog cov uas suav tias yog fashionable thiab txaus siab rau tus kheej cov kev xav tau ntawm ib tug neeg. Cov no suav nrog:
- khaub ncaws,
- tus kheej cov khoom siv (hnab hnab, kaus mom, saib, siv, hnab looj tes, hnab looj tes, thiab lwm yam),
- tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab perfumes
- jewelry (jewelry thiab bijouterie),
- khoom siv hauv tsev (tais diav, txaj, ntaub pua chaw, ntaub pua plag).
Kev tsim khoom ntawm tag nrho cov saum toj no yog ua los ntawm qee qhov kev lag luam ntawm kev lag luam - lub npe hu ua "kev lag luam zam". Cov sector no suav nrog kev tsim khoom thiab muag khoom. Ob peb ceg ntawm lub teeb kev lag luam tau koom nrog ntawm no, ntawm cov khoom siv textile, hairdressing, perfumery, thiab modeling lag luam yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg. Raws li kev txheeb cais qhia, dhau sijhawm, cov khoom lag luam zam tau maj mam nthuav dav.
Nyob zoo ib tsoom niam txiv kwv tij neej tsa sawv daws.
Yog tias ua ntej tsuas yog cov khoom lag luam zoo nkauj ib nrab ntawm tib neeg tau suav tias yog cov khoom lag luam, ces nyob rau xyoo pua nees nkaum qhov kev sib txawv no tau cuam tshuam, thiab zam tau kov cov txiv neej ib yam.
Tib lub sijhawm, kev lag luam zam tau nthuav dav nws cov khoom lag luam zam vim qhov tseeb tias kev ua neej hloov pauv thiab dhau los ua pej xeem. Piv txwv li, peb cov pog thiab yawg tsis tau muab qhov tseem ceeb rau kev ntxuav, nrog rau kev noj mov. Tam sim no, peb feem ntau yuav khoom noj khoom haus thiab ntxhua khaub ncaws hauv khw. Yog li ntawd, yuav luag tag nrho cov khoom siv ntawm tus kheej tam sim no tau muab faib ua cov khoom zam, suav nrog dej qab zib, tsheb, maus taus, rooj tog zaum, ntawv sau, thiab lwm yam.
theem kev txhim kho ntawm kev lag luam zam
Muaj ntau theem ntawm kev txhim kho uas kev lag luam zam tau dhau mus. Txog rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, xws li kev taw qhia tsis muaj nyob, txawm tias lub tswv yim ntawm kev zam yog. Pib xyoo 1890, lawv pib lawvcov kev ua ub no ntawm cov tuam txhab ntawm cov khaub ncaws thiab accessories, nyob rau hauv tus txheej txheem ntawm uas ib tug me me lag luam hloov mus rau hauv ib tug tiag tiag loj-scale ntau lawm. Txawm tias cov ntawv xov xwm zam tau luam tawm, uas cuam tshuam nrog cov khoom lag luam uas yog kev coj noj coj ua hauv zej zog neeg tseem ceeb.
Nyob rau hauv 50s ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem, lawv tau mus rau loj noj, uas txhais tau hais tias nws yuav tsum tau twv yuav raug hu fashionable phenomena. Muaj cov tuam txhab tshwj xeeb hauv kev txheeb xyuas cov khoom tshiab thiab cov qauv hauv lub ntiaj teb zam. Kev tsim khoom loj ntawm cov khaub ncaws zam tau muab tso rau nws tus kheej cov kev xav tau - los txiav txim siab ntawm kev yuav khoom loj, tso tawm, thiab lwm yam. Yog li ntawd, cov tuam txhab tsim cov khoom lag luam npaj tau tsis yog nyob ntawm "inventions" ntawm fashion designers, tab sis tseem nyob rau raw khoom manufacturers. Tom qab ntawd, qhov kev kwv yees tau tshwm sim.
fashion forks
Txij li 60s ntawm lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, kev hloov pauv loj tau tshwm sim - zam (fashion) tau muab faib ua ob ceg: haute couture thiab npaj-rau-hnav. Lub sijhawm no, cov neeg tsim qauv zam xws li Christian Dior, Hubert Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, Coco Chanel thiab lwm tus tau txais koob meej thoob ntiaj teb.
Nyob rau hauv lub 90s, lo lus "pluralism" tshwm sim nyob rau hauv ib puag ncig zam, txhais tau tias tsis muaj ib qho style thiab kev cog lus rau kev faib ua ntau yam lus qhia. Qhov ceev ntawm cov khoom tshiab tau qhia txog kev hloov pauv. Nyob rau hauv parallel nrog qhov no, zam yog "rejuvenated", uas yog, lub sij hawm mus yuav fashionable yam tau tshwm sim tsis tau tsuas yog nyob rau hauv cov neeg nplua nuj, tab sis kuj ntawm cov hluas zoo tib yam. Stylists tsis muaj kev cuam tshuam tseem ceeb ntawm kev zam, ntau lub npe nrov tau koom nrog kev tshaj tawm.
Nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias yog mus txog rau thaum xaus ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th lub zam kev lag luam cuam tshuam tsuas yog cov teb chaws Europe, ces nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 21st fashion tau dhau los ua neeg ntiaj teb no, thiab designers los ntawm ntau lub teb chaws muab lawv cov tswv yim. Niaj hnub no, twb muaj kev cuam tshuam loj ntawm kev coj noj coj ua ntawm oriental, thiab qhov no tau tshwm sim hauv cov khoom siv.
