Tus ntxhiab tsw yog ib zaj nkauj "suab" ua los ntawm cov ntawv sau. Tab sis lub gamma tsis sawv cev rau 7 lub suab paj nruag, tab sis ntau yam kev hloov pauv ntawm aromas. Nyob rau hauv cov lus piav qhia ntawm perfumes, "pyramid" ib txwm tshwm sim, uas qhia txog cov aromatic muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm perfumery. Cov ntxhiab tsw yog dab tsi? Qhov chaw twg lawv nyob hauv "pyramid" thiab lawv cuam tshuam li cas ntawm qhov tsis hnov tsw?
Daim ntawv tshuaj tsw qab yog dab tsi
Txawm hais tias tsis muaj ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab, lawv txhua tus muaj kev pheej hmoo. Qhov kev ua haujlwm ntev no yog txiav txim siab los ntawm cov roj tseem ceeb uas tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab. Daim ntawv fragrance yog ib qho qhia txog qhov tsis hloov pauv ntawm cov roj yam tseem ceeb, tus nqi ntawm nws cov evaporation.
Ntau tus tau pom tias muaj cov tshuaj tsw qab uas nthuav tawm cov tshuaj tsw qab rau ob peb teev, lossis tsawg dua. Thiab muaj cov uas nws cov tshuaj tsw qab kav 2-3 hnub.
Lub sijhawm no nyob ntawm qhov tseeb tias ether yog cov khoom siv ntau yam uas muaj 120-500 yam. Thiab txhua feem kuj muaj nws tus kheej volatility. Thiab txij li thaum lub concentration ntawm xws li tshuaj nyob rau hauv cov roj yam tseem ceebtxawv, ces qhov volatility ntawm ether txawv.
Nyob rau hauv niaj hnub perfumery, tag nrho "sau" ntawm tsw tau tsim. Nws muaj aromas nyob rau hauv ib tug tej yam sequence, lub thiaj li hu ua scale. Zoo li kev tsim kho ntawm cov suab paj nruag chords, cov suab paj nruag uas muaj suab thaj kuj tau tsim - ua raws li qee qhov sib lawv liag thiab yuav tsum ua kom muaj kev sib haum xeeb "suab".
Cov roj tseem ceeb hauv qab
Cov tshuaj tsw qab yog dab tsi rau txiv neej thiab poj niam? Tsis tu ncua thiab ceev evaporating. Thiab yog tias koj muaj hmoo txaus los ua tus tswv ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab tsis txaus ntseeg (ob peb hnub), ces lawv muaj cov roj tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntawv qis.
Lawv tuaj yeem muab piv rau cov ntses bass thaj tsam hauv lub suab paj nruag, uas nws txoj haujlwm hauv lub suab paj nruag yog tuav nws. Cov ntawv hauv qab no yog qhov kawg qhib, tsim tib txoj kev muaj ntxhiab tsw. Lawv kuj tseem ua kom cov evaporation ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw nrog nrawm nrawm.
Cov roj tseem ceeb hauv qab suav nrog:
- patchouli;
- fennel;
- xub;
- carnation;
- fir;
- basil;
- rosewood;
- juniper;
- tea ntoo.
Raws li txoj cai, lawv muaj xim nyob rau hauv ib qho ntxoov ntxoo tsaus thiab muaj qhov sib xws. Los ntawm lawv tus kheej, lawv muaj ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab, nplua nuj, qee tus txawm cloying. Thiab yog tias cov roj poob ntawm daim ntawv no poob rau ntawm daim ntawv, nws yuav tsis evaporate thiab yuav tsis poob nws cov aroma rau ob peb lub lis piam. Yog li ntawd, nyob rau hauv perfumed khoom (ntxuav, eau de toilette, thiab lwm yam), lub concentration ntawm qhov tseem ceebroj ntawm daim ntawv qis yog me me - txog 5%. Tab sis qhov no txaus rau tsw.
Middle note tseem ceeb roj
Nws yog cov roj tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntawv nruab nrab uas txiav txim siab seb cov tshuaj tsw qab tsw qab rau poj niam thiab txiv neej yog dab tsi. Lawv yog cov hauv paus ntawm dab. Tag nrho cov aromatic muaj pes tsawg leeg yog tsim rau lawv, tab sis lawv tshwm tsuas yog tom qab thawj sau ntawv, uas sai sai evaporate.
Cov roj tseem ceeb nruab nrab suav nrog:
- geranium;
- rose;
- neroli;
- ylang-ylang;
- lavender;
- sage.
Nyob rau hauv cov khoom muaj ntxhiab, cov roj yam tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntawv nruab nrab tsim los ntawm 40 txog 80% ntawm tag nrho cov muaj pes tsawg leeg. Cov tshuaj no yog muab rho tawm los ntawm paj thiab ntsuab qhov chaw ntawm cov nroj tsuag.
Yog tias koj ua qhov kev sim thiab tso cov roj li no rau ntawm daim ntawv, nws yuav evaporate hauv ob peb teev, thiab qee qhov hauv ib hnub lossis ob hnub. Tab sis nyob rau hauv ib tug naj hoom, lawv kav ob peb teev xwb.
Ntxiv rau, qee cov roj sau nruab nrab yog cov muaj zog aphrodisiacs uas txhawb kev sib deev muaj siab rau kev sib deev. Tab sis lwm cov roj, ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, muaj cov nyhuv calming thiab so.
Sau ntawv tseem ceeb roj
Cov tshuaj no muaj cov tshuaj uas muaj kev hloov pauv siab. Ntawd yog, cov roj tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntawv sau saum toj kawg nkaus yuav evaporate sai heev. Tab sis lawv yog cov kev taw qhia rau cov aromatic muaj pes tsawg leeg, nws yog lawv hais tias tus buyer "hnov" nyob rau hauv thawj qhov chaw thaum xaiv ib tug naj hoom.
Cov roj tseem ceeb suav nrog:
- lemon;
- txiv kab ntxwv;
- mint;
- melissa;
- rosemary;
- eucalyptus;
- thyme.
Nyob hauv cov tshuaj tsw qab, thawj sau ntawv tsuas yog 10-15% ntawm tag nrho cov muaj pes tsawg leeg.
Nyob rau hauv naj hoom, cov tshuaj tsw qab ntawm thawj sau ntawv tsuas yog ob peb feeb xwb, qhov siab tshaj plaws yog ib teev. Thiab nyob rau hauv kev sim nrog ib tee roj thiab ntawv, thawj evaporates nyob rau hauv ob peb teev.
Dhau li ntawm perfumery, cov roj yam tseem ceeb los ntawm sab saum toj ntawm "pyramid" yog siv hauv aromatherapy:
- nqus pa;
- bath;
- aroma teeb.
Fragrance Classification
Muaj 20-30 pawg ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab hauv ntau qhov kev faib tawm. Tab sis xws li kev faib yuav tsum tsis txhob coj mus rau txoj kev ntseeg, vim hais tias qhov kev xav no yog subjective. Tseeb tiag, ib tug perfumer tuaj yeem "hnov" ob peb fragrances ua ib qho, thiab lwm tus perfumer tuaj yeem ntes ob peb "ntxhais" hauv ib qho tsw.
Tab sis ib yam yog qhov tseeb - tag nrho cov tshuaj tsw qab tuaj yeem muab faib ua ntau pawg, uas yuav txiav txim siab qee yam sib xws, zoo ib yam hauv lawv. Yog, thiab muaj ntau yam kev faib tawm.
Tom ntej no, peb nthuav qhia ntau yam yooj yim thiab paub ntau yam ntawm qhov tsw (hom) yog.
paj
Floral fragrances yog cov uas tsw tsw ntawm paj predominate: ib los yog tag nrho bouquet. Cov fragrances no tuaj yeem tsuas yog paj, tab sis feem ntau tsis yog, paj scents yog "spiced" nrog ntxiv citrus los yog woody sau ntawv. Nws kuj yog qeb loj tshaj plaws ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab.
Txawm li cas los xij, piv cov tshuaj tsw qab zoo ib yam nrog cov ntxhiab tsw zoo sib xws, txawm li cas los xijNws yog tsis yooj yim sua tsis pom lawv qhov txawv. Qhov zoo tshaj plaws yog tias tib lub floral fragrance yog perceived txawv los ntawm txawv perfumers. Yog lawm, thiab tus naj npawb ntawm cov khoom sib xws yuav txawv ntawm ob hom analogues.
Tsis tas li ntawd, cov tshuaj tsw qab paj yuav txawv ntawm cov yam ntxwv. Perfume tuaj yeem yog:
- dry;
- lyrical;
- soft;
- bright;
- kub;
- kev xav;
- saturated;
- subtle;
- sad etc.
Nyob zoo ib tsoom phooj ywg;
Thiab qhov xwm txheej ntawm naj hoom yog qhov cuam tshuam ntawm lub siab uas tus naj npawb yog thaum lub sijhawm tsim.
Piv txwv ntawm cov ntawv sau paj:
- rose;
- iris;
- peony;
- tuberose;
- lily ntawm hav;
Vajtswv Violet
Oriental
Cov tshuaj tsw qab yog dab tsi? Cov yam ntxwv yog thawj yam uas qhia txog lawv qhov sib txawv. Ib qho ntawm cov yam ntxwv no yog oriental style. Oriental fragrances tsis tuaj yeem tsis meej pem nrog txhua yam, lawv tsis ploj "hauv pawg neeg" ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw uas ua rau cov tshuaj tsw qab.
oriental fragrances yog:
- brightness;
- kev xav;
- sexy;
- spice;
- sweetness;
- saturation.
Feem ntau cov naj hoom oriental yog cov tshuaj aphrodisiacs muaj zog uas txhim kho lawv qhov kev thov thaum sib cuag nrog daim tawv nqaij.
Tab sis oriental perfumes rau cov ntxhais yog cov ntxhiab ua ke nrog pajthiab sau ntawv fougere.
Smels of the East are:
- exotic ambergris;
- patchouli;
- sandal;
- cistus;
- vanilla.
Aromas ntawm Sab Hnub Tuaj hauv cov tshuaj tsw qab yog lawv cov plume, uas tawm hauv qab qab qab los ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab. Thiab ib txwm muaj ntxhiab tsw yog qhov txawv los ntawm kev ua kom ntev (los ntawm ob peb teev mus rau ob peb hnub).
Citrus zest (bergamot, txiv qaub thiab mandarin) yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw. Thiab tag nrho cov fruity creation yog complemented los ntawm iab txiv kab ntxwv paj extract. Citrus scents khub zoo nrog cov paj thiab ntoo, tab sis feem ntau ntxiv cov ntxhiab tsw oriental.
Txawm li cas los xij, cov neeg nyiam ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab citrus yuav tsum nkag siab tias lawv tab tom yuav cov khoom lag luam uas muaj qhov ntsuas tsis muaj zog (tsuas yog 3-5 teev). Tab sis cov tshuaj tsw qab no zoo nyob rau lub caij ntuj sov, thaum koj xav tau ntau dua tshiab.
Lub ntsiab citrus tsw yog:
- lemon;
- bergamot;
- grapefruit;
- txiv kab ntxwv;
- tangerine;
- lime.
Nyob hauv nws daim ntawv purest, cov ntxhiab ntawm citrus naj hoom zoo li pheej yig. Tab sis nyob rau hauv ib tug muaj pes tsawg leeg ntawm ob peb txawv tsw, lawv muab cov aroma ib tug tshwj xeeb piquancy.
Fruit
Ntshav qab zib nrog cov ntawv qhia meej ntawm cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo qab zib ua rau ntawm lub hauv paus berry. Lub durability ntawm cov khoom no yog nruab nrab - los ntawm 4 mus rau 8 teev, uas yog ntau tshaj li citrus thiab floral fragrances.
Txiv hmab txiv ntoo scents haum rau cov ntxhais hluas nrog ib tug rhiab romantic xwm. Thaum tsimperfumes yog raws li cov extracts:
- raspberries;
- cranberries;
- melons;
- ntsuab apple;
- pineapple;
- kab txawv paj nrog cov lus qhia ntawm vanilla, tart cinnamon thiab taum.
Npaj nrog cov ntxhiab tsw qab feem ntau yog siv thaum nruab hnub, nyiam nyob rau lub caij ntuj sov.
Fogere
Lub npe thib ob ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab yog fern. Yog tias koj yog tus tswv ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab, ces paub tias nws yog raws li cov ntoo qhib ntoo. Tab sis qhov no tsis yog tib qhov chaw ntawm fougere aroma. Fougère scents yog:
- lavender;
- coumarin;
- geranium;
- - -tsw thaum sawv ntxov lwg;
- Ntsuab txiav nyom;
- muag hav zoov, thiab lwm yam.
Fern scents - perfume scents for guys. Tseem muaj cov poj niam txoj kev xaiv, tab sis feem ntau ntawm cov naj hoom no yog unisex. Cov no yog tart, refreshing, daring fragrances zoo kawg nkaus hais txog cov hluas ntawm nws tus tswv. Tab sis rau cov neeg laus, lawv tsis yog contraindicated, tsuas yog ua ke nrog cov ntawv sau oriental. Thiab rau cov hluas, kev sib xyaw nrog cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo lossis cov paj ntoo yog qhov nyiam dua.
Chypre
Lub npe nrov "chypre" yog vim lub Greek kob ntawm Crete, los yog ntau hom ntoo qhib ntoo uas loj hlob muaj. Nws tsis hnov tsw yog phem rau nws tus kheej, tab sis thaum ua ke nrog aromas ntawm qab zib txiv hmab txiv ntoo, citrus, oriental spices thiab paj, nws muab ib tug softer, woody.tsw.
Chypre perfumes suav hais tias yog universal, tab sis cov txiv neej tseem nyiam lawv ntau dua. Txiv neej cov naj hoom yog qhov tshwj xeeb tshaj yog zoo nyob rau hauv ua ke nrog cov luam yeeb ntxoov ntxoo, suede los yog tawv. Tab sis cov neeg nyiam ntawm chypre yuav nyiam sau ntawv ntxiv ntawm jasmine, lily ntawm hav, sawv, nrog rau cov tshuaj tsw qab nrog cov lus qhia ntawm bergamot thiab patchouli.
Ntsuj Plig ntawm tus cwj pwm chypre sib npaug haum rau yav tsaus ntuj lossis kev tawm mus. Lawv aroma yog nplua nuj, muab nws tus tswv raws li txoj cai, aristocracy.
Thawj chypre perfumes muaj cov ntoo qhib ntoo, patchouli, bergamot thiab cov pos hniav frankincense. Cov ntxhiab no yog qab zib, iab thiab tshiab tib lub sijhawm. Tom qab ntawd, ib los yog ntau tshaj ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab no muaj nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov tsim chypre perfumery.
Chypre fragrances muaj lub neej ntev, uas ua rau muaj kev sib cuag nrog cov tawv nqaij thiab plaub hau, thiab tsis muaj zog nrog cov khaub ncaws.
