Belgian cov neeg tsim qauv hauv kev lag luam zam niaj hnub yog kev sib txuas ua lag luam thiab kos duab. Lub sij hawm "Antwerp Six", los yog Antwerp SIX, tuaj yeem hnov thaum twg los ntawm kev xav zam. Dab tsi ua rau Belgian couturiers nto moo thiab koj tuaj yeem ua tus cwj pwm li cas?
Dab tsi yog Antwerp SIX
Lub Antwerp Six yog ib pawg ntawm cov kws tsim qauv kawm tiav los ntawm Belgian Royal Academy of Arts. Lawv lub npe yog:
- Dries van Noten.
- Ann Demeulemeester.
- W alter van Beirendonck.
- Dirk Bikkembergs.
- Marina Yee.
- Dirk van Saene.
Tom qab kawm tiav ntawm Antwerp Academy hauv 1981, txhua tus tsim qauv pib ua haujlwm ywj pheej. Xyoo 1986, lawv tau koom tes koom nrog London Fashion Week. Taug kev mus rau teb chaws Askiv yog ib qho tseem ceeb thiab mus ncig ua ke yog qhov zoo.
Qhia tawm ntawm Belgians hauv London ua rau muaj kev xav. Shows nrog kev koom tes ntawm zam qauv ntawm cov tsis-tus qauv tsos coj qhov chaw nyob rau hauv feem ntauCov chaw uas npaj txhij txog xws li cov chaw nres tsheb tso tseg. Avant-garde khaub ncaws teetered ntawm verge ntawm zam thiab kos duab. Cov hauj lwm ntawm Antwerpians txawv ntawm cov xwm txheej bourgeois cov khoom nrov hauv xyoo 1980s, uas tau muab los ntawm Asmeskas thiab Fab Kis couturiers.
Cov yeeb yaj kiab Belgian tau txais ntau qhov kev tshaj tawm hauv xov xwm. Hauv cov ntawv sau, cov neeg tsim qauv nrog cov npe nyuaj tau raug xa mus rau Antwerp SIX - Antwerp Six. Lub sij hawm tau poob mus rau hauv keeb kwm zam.
Tom qab London yeej, txoj kev muaj tswv yim ntawm Belgians sib txawv. Cov hauj lwm ntawm fashion designers tau tsim nyob rau hauv ntau txoj kev.
Lub rooj sib tham keeb kwm ntawm rau Antwerpians tau tshwm sim hauv 2015. Cov kawm tiav ntawm Academy of Arts tau koom kev ua koob tsheej ntawm 50 xyoo ntawm lawv cov kws qhia ntawv ntawm fashion.
Style nta
Cov neeg tsim qauv ntawm Antwerp Six tau txais kev vam meej nrog kev ua tsis ncaj ncees rau kev tsim qauv. Txhua tus tswv cuab ntawm Antwerp SIX muaj lawv tus kheej style, tab sis lawv cov style muaj ob peb yam sib xws:
- Kev xav. Cov tswv cuab ntawm Antwerp Six tsim khaub ncaws "nrog lub ntsiab lus". Silhouettes thiab décor qhia txog cov tswv yim ntawm tus tsim. Dirk Bikkembergs qhia txog kev ua kis las thiab lub zog hauv txhua yam, Marina Yi qhia txog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm kev saib xyuas lub ntiaj teb.
- Kev tshem tawm qhov sib txawv ntawm poj niam txiv neej. Hauv kev txhais lus ntawm Antwerp SIX, cov khaub ncaws zam rau cov poj niam thiab cov txiv neej yog deprived ntawm lawv cov tsoos nta. Cov neeg Belgians tab tom sim nrog cov xim thiab txiav cov ntsiab lus, tsis kam lees qhov kev xav txog poj niam txiv neej ntawm qee yam ntsiab lus ntawm lub wardrobe. Nyob rau hauv cov txiv neej thiab poj niam collectionsDries Van Noten cov khaub ncaws yog lavishly adorned nrog cov yeeb yuj paj thiab txiv hmab txiv ntoo tsim.
- YWearability. Lub tswv yim khaub ncaws los ntawm Belgian designers tau sib xws nrog lub neej tiag tiag. Qhov tsim nyog sib npaug ntawm kev txaus siab thiab muaj tswv yim zoo coj ua lag luam ua tiav rau Antwerp twb nyob rau nruab nrab-1980s.
Hnub no, yav dhau los cov tswv cuab ntawm Antwerp SIX raug xaiv los ntawm cov neeg muaj koob meej rau kev sib raug zoo. Nws yog nyob rau hauv kev thov los ntawm cov neeg siv khoom zoo tib yam hauv lub neej txhua hnub. Cov neeg tsim qauv zam ntawm Antwerp Six muab lawv tus kheej coj ntawm lub wardrobe "nrog lub ntsiab lus".
Ann Demeulemeester
Poj niam couturier yug hauv 1959 Lub npe hom nrhiav tau nyob rau hauv 1985 Ann Demeulemeester yog cov txiv neej hnav khaub ncaws thiab cov poj niam khaub ncaws hom.
Yam los ntawm Ann Demelmeister ua ke ua haujlwm nrog kev kos duab. Nruab nrab avant-garde, tus Belgian ntxiv kev npau suav, bohemian kov rau koj lub wardrobe niaj hnub.
Txhua Demelmeister collections yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev sib cuam tshuam ntawm cov txiv neej thiab poj niam cov ntsiab lus hauv ib daim duab. Asymmetrical txiav, kua ntaub ntaub thiab ib tug muted palette tsim ib tug xav, poetic mus ob peb vas.
Anne qhov kev tshoov siab los ntawm cov suab paj nruag pob zeb thiab cov duab niaj hnub. Cov duab kos los ntawm tus kws kos duab Jackson Pollock thiab cov nkauj thiab cov nkauj los ntawm Patti Smith tau txais kev txhais cov neeg tsim qauv hauv Ann Demeulemeester khaub ncaws.
Plaub xyoos dhau los, tus tsim ntawm hom tau so haujlwm los ntawm kev ua haujlwm. Hnub no, Sebastian Meunier, tus tsim qauv hluas los ntawm Fabkis, txuas ntxiv nws txoj haujlwm.
Dirk Bikkembergs
Tus tsim qauv tsim tawmnyob rau hauv 1959. Lub hom muaj npe tom qab nws tau tsim nyob rau hauv 1986. Thaum pib, Dirk Bikkembergs tshwj xeeb hauv cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws. Niaj hnub no, Dirk Bikkembergs kuj tsim khaub ncaws rau poj niam thiab menyuam.
Dirk Bikkembergs tshaj tawm kev sib haum xeeb ntawm lub cev zoo nkauj thiab lub siab dawb. Nws tsim cov khaub ncaws uas tshwm sim los ntawm kev txav mus los thiab lub tswv yim ntawm kev kub ceev. Tej yam hais txog lub zog thiab kev zoo nkauj ntawm tus neeg ncaws pob thiab tsim los muab kev nplij siab thaum lub cev ua si.
Dirk Bikkembergs khaub ncaws yog anatomically zoo li tus thiab crafted los ntawm cov ntaub ntawv tshiab. Lub palette yog dominated los ntawm nruab nrab xim - monochrome, beige thiab khaki. Vibrant acid accents qhia txog qhov xwm txheej ntawm lub wardrobe los ntawm avant-garde Belgian.
YDris van Noten
Designer yug hauv xyoo 1958. Ua ntej pib nws lub npe, Dries ua haujlwm ua tus kws kos duab ywj pheej rau ntau xyoo thiab koom tes nrog lwm cov tuam txhab. Tom qab ua yeeb yam keeb kwm hauv London, Van Noten tau qhib lub rooj cob qhia kos npe, uas nyob rau hauv peb xyoos tau loj hlob mus rau hauv lub tsev zam loj.
Hnub no Dris van Noten yog lub npe thoob ntiaj teb muab cov txiv neej thiab poj niam cov khaub ncaws. Xyoo 2017, tus tsim qauv tsim 100th sau, cim hnub tseem ceeb nrog kev tso tawm cov duab rov qab.
Dris van Noten tus kheej style yog pom tau yooj yim los ntawm cov xim nplua nuj thiab kho kom zoo nkauj nrog pej xeem thiab xwm txheej. Cov khaub ncaws los ntawm Dries Van Noten yog dai kom zoo nkauj nrog paj ntaub thiab siv tes ua luam. Cov duab kos nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm haiv neeg ornaments, txiv hmab txiv ntoo thiab nroj tsuag yog tam sim nontawm txiv neej thiab poj niam khaub ncaws.
Cov décor zoo nkauj txuag lub npe cov neeg siv khoom txaus ntshai ntawm kev yuav khoom cuav Dris van Noten. Cov neeg dag ntxias tsis tuaj yeem rov tsim dua tus sau tus tsim ntawm Antwerp.
W alter van Beirendonck
W alter yug hauv xyoo 1957. Nws lub npe zam tau tsim xyoo 1983 thiab tsom rau cov txiv neej cov neeg tuaj saib.
W alter van Beirendonck tseem tsim cov khaub ncaws menyuam yaus sau rau Belgian cov khw muag khoom, tsim cov khaub ncaws ua yeeb yam thiab ua phau ntawv illustrations.
Xyoo 1998, Beirendonk tau qhib lub khw W alter hauv nws lub tebchaws, uas yog ntau lub khw muag khoom thiab chaw ua yeeb yam.
W alter van Beirendonck - khaub ncaws rau cov neeg uas muaj kev lom zem thiab kev ua neej nyob.
Beirendonk nthuav tawm thawj coj ntawm kev zam nrog phau ntawv comic illustrations thiab inscriptions. Cov phiaj xwm ntawm cov ntawv luam tawm feem ntau provocative thiab kov thaum muaj teeb meem kev sib raug zoo.
Txhua Beirendonk sau tau mob siab rau lub ntsiab lus tshwj xeeb thiab muaj lub npe: "Stop Terrorizing Our World", "Solar and Lunar Worlds", "Sweet Home".
Dirk van Saene
Wang Seng yug xyoo 1959. Tom qab ua tiav nws txoj kev kawm ntawm Academy, tus tsim qauv qhib lub khw Beauties thiab Heroes.
Wang Sen qhia nws tus kheej ua tus kws kos duab los ntawm nws cov hluas. Ib qho kev nthuav dav tshwj xeeb ntawm nws cov qauv tsim yog xuas tes ua cov duab zoo nkauj thiab luam tawm ntawm cov duab kos rau cov ntaub. Cov tsos ntawm tej yam uas sib txawv collections yog hloov los ntawm cov tsooskhoom kim heev ua ntej deconstruction.
Dirk van Sen thawj zaug tau tsom mus rau qhov nqaim ntawm kev tsim khoom nrog ntau yam ntawm cov cuab yeej siv tes ua. Tom qab ntawd nws tsiv tawm ntawm kev tsim qauv.
Hnub no, Dirk qhia ntawm Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts thiab ua haujlwm hauv ceramics. Nyob rau hauv 2017, ib tug exhibition ntawm sculptures los ntawm ib tug Belgian tau muaj nyob rau hauv Vienna.
Van Sen yog tus khub ntev ntawm nws Antwerp SIX colleague W alter van Beirendonck. Cov phooj ywg khiav W alter boutique ua ke.
Marina Yee
Marina yug hauv 1958. Thaum ntxov hauv nws txoj haujlwm, Yi tau koom tes nrog cov tub ntxhais kawm Dirk Bikkembergs. Nws tau ua haujlwm ua tus tsim khaub ncaws hnav thiab cov khoom siv tawv tawv. Marina Yee tau tsim tawm xyoo 2003
Tus tsim lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb yog kev noj qab haus huv. Marina Yi siv cov khaub ncaws qub uas pom hauv khw muag khoom los tsim cov khoom tsim tshiab. Tig rags mus rau hauv ib qho khoom tshwj xeeb, Marina ua rau pej xeem mloog txog qhov teeb meem ntawm kev quav tshuaj ntau dhau rau cov khoom muaj nqis.
Lub npe Marina Yee tau kav mus txog xyoo 2005. Lub Yim Hli 2018, nws tau paub txog kev rov qab los ntawm Belgian mus rau kev lag luam zam. Nws tsim cov khaub ncaws kab rau Japanese lub tswv yim boutique Laila Tokio.
Yi's mini collection yog mob siab rau nws cov ntsiab lus nyiam ntawm kev noj nruab nrab, uas tau dhau los ua lub ntsiab lus kub hauv kev lag luam khoom kim heev niaj hnub no.
Meaning Antwerp SIX
Kev vam meej ntawm Antwerp Six tau ua rau Belgium yog ib qho chaw hauv ntiaj teb kev lag luam zam. Fabkis ib txwm uayog txuam nrog cov khoom kim heev ntawm Haute Couture, Tebchaws Asmeskas - nrog rau cov xwm txheej ntawm kev npaj-rau-hnav, Ltalis - nrog rau cov duab sensual luxurious. Belgium txuas ntxiv cov npe thiab hloov mus ua Mecca ntawm kev xav zam. Niaj hnub no, Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts yog lub tsev tsim muaj koob npe.
Antwerp SIX tau ua txoj hauv kev rau lawv cov neeg koom siab mus rau sab saum toj ntawm txoj haujlwm zam. Cov npe ntawm Olivier Teyskens, Raf Simons, lub duet ntawm Victor thiab Rolf tau paub thoob plaws ntiaj teb. Lawv ua tau raws li qhov kev cia siab ntawm pej xeem, dhau los ua tus txais txiaj ntsig ntawm Antwerp Six.
Antwerp SIX yog ib qho piv txwv nrog kev txawj ntse zam rau poj niam thiab txiv neej. Tej yam los ntawm cov neeg tsim qauv ntawm Antwerp Six yog ib qho cim ntawm tus neeg xav uas nkag siab thiab txaus siab rau kev kos duab. Antwerp SIX khaub ncaws yog qhov tshwj xeeb thiab tso cai rau koj xaiv lub wardrobe raws li koj tus kheej tus cwj pwm thiab cov tswv yim txog kev nplij siab ntawm lub cev thiab lub hlwb.
