Xyoo 1920 hu ua "roaring twenties", "roaring twenties", "crazy twenties", "golden twenties". Qhov no yog lub sijhawm ntawm jazz thiab art deco, lub hnub qub ntawm xov tooj cua thiab xinesmas, seev cev ua yeeb yam thiab hmo ntuj. Lub sijhawm no yog lub sijhawm ntawm cov neeg uas tau dim ntawm kev ua tsov rog thoob ntiaj teb kev puas tsuaj, lub sijhawm hloov pauv thiab kev vam meej.
Dab tsi cuam tshuam kev zam?
Nyob rau xyoo 1920, kev sib raug zoo ntawm cov poj niam hloov pauv loj heev. Yog tias yav dhau los txawm tias feminists tau lees paub tias kev sib deev ncaj ncees yuav tsum xaiv ntawm txoj haujlwm thiab tsev neeg muaj txiaj ntsig, tam sim no cov poj niam xav ua ke ob qho tib si. Cov ntxhais uas dim ntawm cov tiam tshiab raug hu ua flappers. Tsis zoo li lawv niam thiab pog yawg Victorian, cov flappers tsis muaj kev ywj pheej: lawv cov khaub ncaws tau nthuav tawm, hnav pleev xim thiab mloog jazz, lawv tsav tsheb thiab ua haujlwm, lawv haus luam yeeb thiab seev cev.
Ntxiv rau kev dim, Kev Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib ib tau muaj kev cuam tshuam rau poj niam txoj kev xav thoob ntiaj teb. Thaum cov txiv neej tawm muspem hauv ntej, nws yog cov poj niam uas yuav tsum tau sawv tom qab lub tshuab hauv cov chaw tsim khoom thiab cov chaw tsim khoom, khawb trenches, saib xyuas cov neeg raug mob, tua hluav taws thiab ua raws li cov tub ceev xwm. Tag nrho cov kev hloov no tau tshwm sim hauv tus poj niam tus cwj pwm thiab, vim li ntawd, hauv kev ua yeeb yam ntawm lub suab nrov nees nkaum.
Hauv keeb kwm ntawm ntiaj teb kev zam, lub sijhawm no yog qhov hloov pauv. Nws hloov pauv radically tias nws yog nyob rau xyoo 1920 uas ib txoj kab meej tuaj yeem kos ntawm kev zam ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th, cov qauv uas tseem muaj kev xav ua ntej ua tsov ua rog, thiab zam ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th. Corsets thiab tiab ntev tsis tau raws li niaj hnub kev xav tau ntawm kev yooj yim thiab kev ua haujlwm, cov plaub hau tsis yooj yim thiab cov kaus mom dav dav ploj mus, kev txiav ntawm hnav tau yooj yim dua, fasteners txav ntawm sab nraub qaum mus rau hauv siab, lub tswv yim "xov tooj cua" yog nce ntxiv, unisex. style yog los rau hauv fashion.
เดรส
Kev zam ntawm 20s ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tau hais txog lub tswv yim tshiab ntawm poj niam zoo li. Tus poj niam hluas-emancipe yuav tsum rhiab heev, nrog lub duav nqaim me me thiab lub mis tsis meej. Nws tuaj txog qhov uas ib tug poj niam zoo nkauj heev bust yog nruj nreem qhwv. Daim duab androgynous tau pab tswj kev ua kis las uas tau ua nrov ntawm cov flappers. Thiab txhawm rau hais txog qhov yuav luag me me thiab angularity, hnav khaub ncaws ntawm ib qho ncaj silhouette tau hu ua. Lub duav kab ntawm xws li outfits yog heev underestimated, tab sis lub hem ntawm lub tiab strove. Yog hais tias thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20s pob taws ntev yog nyob rau hauv zam, ces nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub era lub hnav ris tsho nce mus rau lub hauv caug thiab txawm me ntsis siab dua, ntog dua nyob rau hauv lub kawg ntawm lub xyoo caum. Lub tes tsho ntev ploj mus thiab muab txoj hauv kev rau cov hlua, lub cev tau nthuav tawm ntau dua:ib tug defiant cutout tshwm nyob rau tom qab.
Lub ntiaj teb tom qab tsov rog tau cheb los ntawm lub npe hu ua seev cev mania. Qhov nrov ntawm kev seev cev tau nce zuj zus, foxtrot, American tango thiab w altz yog cov nyiam tshaj plaws, blues thiab Charleston, lindy hop thiab viav vias kis. Raws li kev ua las voos mania, kev zam ntawm xyoo 1920 kuj hloov. Hnav khaub ncaws, nyob rau hauv uas nws yuav tsum tau xis mus seev cev hmo ntuj deb, ua luv luv, ci ntaub, ya "tails", fringe thiab beaded paj ntaub, plaub thiab furs, twj nrog luj taws los ua nrov. Lub caj dab nyob rau sab nraub qaum feem ntau mus txog ntawm fashionista lub duav, lub duav nqaim tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog hneev, thiab lub hauv siab yuav luag zoo nkauj nrog ntau txheej hlaws hlaws.
Outerwear
20s yog lub sijhawm ntawm kev sim, kev tsim kho tshiab thiab cov tswv yim vwm. Raws li kev cuam tshuam ntawm cov qauv tshiab, cov ris tsho sab nrauv kuj tau hloov pauv. Yog hais tias thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th nws tsis txawv nyob rau hauv ntau yam style, ces tom qab tsov rog qhov teeb meem no hloov dramatically: cov tub rog uas tawm tsam txawv teb chaws coj lub tsev ntau lub tswv yim tshiab. Cov cwj pwm ntawm lwm lub teb chaws tau ua rau cov neeg European thiab Asmeskas cov neeg tsim qauv tsim los tsim cov khoom sib txawv ntawm cov kab lis kev cai sib txawv thiab hloov mus ua ib yam dab tsi tshiab. Piv txwv li, nws yog nyob rau hauv cov xyoo ntawd lub cape tshwm nyob rau ntawm lub catwalk - lub tsho tiv no sleeveless, paub nyob rau hauv peb lub sij hawm.
Tab sis hom khaub ncaws nrov tshaj plaws yog lub tsho tiv no legendary ("trench tsho"), tsim los ntawm tus neeg Askiv Askiv Thomas Bradbury. Qhov no waterproof gabardine raincoat tau tsim tshwj xeeb rau cov tub rog thiab tau txais ntau qhov chaw nyob rau hauvNtiaj Teb Tsov Rog Zaum I thiab ua tiav kev kov yeej cov catwalks hauv peb lub sijhawm. Lub tsho tiv no tshiab ntes lub siab ntawm cov fashionistas ntawm lub suab nrov nees nkaum. Tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau cov poj niam, Bradberry launched zus tau tej cov ntau elegant thiab lub teeb qauv los ntawm mos ntaub. Lub tsho tiv no zoo kawg nkaus haum rau kev zam unisex, ua tau raws li cov kev cai tshiab ntawm kev yooj yim thiab kev nplij siab.
Pants
Cov poj niam nyob rau xyoo 1920 tau nquag ua haujlwm rau txiv neej txoj haujlwm: lawv zaum ntawm lub dav hlau, tsav tsheb thiab mus rau kev ua kis las. Tau kawg, kev zam ntawm 20s ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th qhia tag nrho cov kev hloov pauv: emancipes hnav khaub ncaws ua haujlwm thiab lub tsho dav hlau, hnav cov txiv neej tuxedos thiab breeches. Tab sis tej zaum qhov kev hloov pauv tshiab tshaj plaws yog cov poj niam cov ris tsho. Txog tam sim no, lawv tsis tuaj yeem thawb lub tiab ntawm silhouette ncaj, tab sis pajama ris, uas tuaj rau Tebchaws Europe los ntawm Is Nrias teb, tau dhau los ua cov khaub ncaws zam rau kev mus rau lub puam. Ib me ntsis tom qab, thaum Fabkis zam designer Jeanne Lanvin pib tsim elegant pajamas los ntawm ntws fabrics, dai kom zoo nkauj nrog lace, paj ntaub thiab fringe, cov poj niam dared coj mus rau txoj kev nyob rau hauv xws outfits. Peb tuaj yeem hais tias pajamas tau dhau los ua tus qauv ntawm thawj cov ris tsho hnav, uas yuav tuaj rau hauv kev zam me ntsis tom qab.
khau
Ntxiv rau cov khaub ncaws luv luv ntawm jazz dancers, dancemania tau muab lub suab nrov nees nkaum elegant twj nrog luj taws lavishly embellished nrog pob zeb diamond, siv thiab buckles. Qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov khau no yog webbed fasteners. Cov twj tso kua mis muaj nuj nqis heev, yog li fashionistas hnav lawv los tiv thaiv lawv ntawm txoj kev av.khau looj plab hlaub tshwj xeeb, ib yam dab tsi zoo li galoshes nrog me me indentation ntawm lub luj taws dav.
Lwm qhov ntaus ntawm lub caij - khau siab, hu ua Russians. Kev sib kis ntawm zam rau lawv tau yooj yim los ntawm ntau tus neeg tsiv teb tsaws chaw los ntawm Russia uas tau khiav tawm txawv teb chaws tom qab lub kiv puag ncig. Cov poj niam luv luv luv luv kuj tau pab. Thawj thawj zaug, "Lavxias teb sab khau" tau nthuav tawm los ntawm Parisian fashion designer Paul Poiret rov qab rau xyoo 1913, tshwm sim los ntawm nws txoj kev mus rau St. Petersburg thiab Moscow.
Hats
Hats tseem yog tus cwj pwm tseem ceeb ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws hnav hauv 20s, tsuas yog lawv saib txawv kiag li. Kev zoo nkauj thoob plaws teb tau dhau los ua ib yam ntawm yav dhau los, lub kaus mom thiab lub kaus mom tau raug tsis nco qab lawm. Nyob rau hauv lub ncov ntawm muaj koob meej - lub tswb-puab cloche kaus mom. Cloches tshuav lawv lub ntsej muag rau Fabkis tus mlom Caroline Rebu, "tus poj huab tais" ntawm lub kaus mom zam. Xws li headdresses tau sewn, raws li txoj cai, los ntawm kev xav, velvet los yog satin, horsehair, straw los yog xav. Cloche kaus mom ua kom nws tuaj yeem nkaum cov plaub hau, xis nyob thiab siv tau. Ntxiv rau lawv, fashionistas ntawm jazz era xaiv berets thiab headbands. Yav tsaus ntuj headdresses tau intricately decorated nrog hniav stitching, satin ribbons, paj thiab rhinestones, plaub thiab brooches.
Tom qab tsiv teb tsaws chaw los ntawm Russia mus rau Tebchaws Europe thiab Asmeskas, cov tsoos Lavxias teb sab headdress, kokoshnik, tam sim ntawd tawg mus rau hauv lub ntiaj teb ntawm Western zam. Nws tuaj yeem raug suav hais tias yog lub ntsiab lus nrov tshaj plaws ntawm pej xeem cov ris tsho hauv lub sijhawm ntawm kev tsov rog ntiaj teb. Cov poj niam zam ntawm 20s pom zoo hnav kokoshnik-crown rau kab tshoob, thiabrov xav dua cov ntawv luam ua ib feem ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws txhua hnub. Jeanne Lanvin txawm tsim ib phau ntawm cov kaus mom Lavxias teb sab, thiab cov tsev zam muag cov yas kokoshniks.
Accessories
Fashion designers ntawm 20s xaiv satin, velvet thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav los tsim cov khaub ncaws. Knitwear dhau los ua qhov kev tshawb pom tiag tiag: yog tias nyob rau xyoo pua 19th tsuas yog cov ris tsho hauv qab yooj yim thiab cov khaub ncaws rau cov neeg hauv qab tau sewn los ntawm nws, ces nyob rau hauv lub suab nrov nees nkaum nws nce mus rau nws cov pedestal. Furs tsis ua kom nthuav dav ntawm cov khaub ncaws sab nrauv: fashionistas-flappers hnav hma liab lossis sable tawv ntawm lub xub pwg liab qab, ua tiav lawv cov khaub ncaws yav tsaus ntuj. Lub qhov ncauj ntev thiab cov ntaub ntawv luam yeeb tau dhau los ua ib qho khoom siv tsis tau.
Kev zam ntawm 20s ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tau hais txog qhov sib xws ntawm cov khaub ncaws, thiab yog li ntawd lawv cov khoom kho kom zoo nkauj tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nplua nuj. Cov khaub ncaws tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog hlaws, fringe thiab paj ntaub. Folk motifs tau dhau los ua neeg nyiam heev: cov poj niam xaiv Suav paj ntaub thiab Persian ornaments. Qhov kev tshawb pom nyob rau hauv 1922 ntawm lub qhov ntxa Tutankhamen los ntawm Askiv archaeologist Howard Carter coj mus rau Egyptomania uas cheb tag nrho lub ntiaj teb sab hnub poob. Cov xim sib txawv ntawm Egyptian kab lis kev cai, geometric daim duab ntawm ancient art, hieroglyphs thiab tsoos qauv, beaded hnab thiab feather boas pib dominate fashionable chav dej.
Tau kawg, qhov muaj koob meej ntawm cov kab txawv tau cuam tshuam rau kev kos duab ntawm cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, thiab cov khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws kuj yog nyob rau hauv zam. Tej zaum qhov tseem ceeb ntawm tus poj niam ntawm xyoo 1920 yog hlaws hlaws. Lawv tau qhwv ib ncig ntawm caj dab ob peb zaug, thiab lawv cov qib qis tshaj tuaj yeem ncav cuag lub duav. Qee zaumpob zeb siv lead ua tau xaiv los ntawm pearls. Ntxiv nrog rau cov hlaws dai, cov poj niam hnav cov plaub hau loj thiab cov brooches, cov hlaws dav dav thiab cov qhwv ntsej loj geometric. Lub tiara tuaj rau hauv kev zam, nws yog xaiv rau yav tsaus ntuj dresses. Cov hlau nrov tshaj plaws yog platinum thiab kub dawb, thiab lub sijhawm no hauv cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub hu ua "dawb".
Vim yog cov zam rau luv luv dresses, nyias silk stockings nrog ib tug siv tau zoo heev thov, uas, txawm li cas los xij, tsis yog txhua tus neeg muaj peev xwm them taus, thiab yog li cov khoom siv hluavtaws feem ntau yuav hloov. Tus qauv tshiab ntawm cov khaub ncaws hu ua cov lingerie tshiab: fashionistas ntawm lub xyoo 1920 tau xaiv rau luv luv, ncaj slips, nruj saum uas nyem lub mis, txhob lo lo ntxhuav knickers thiab nruj petticoats.
Hairstyle zam ntawm 20s xaj kom tso tseg cov plaub hau ntev hauv kev nyiam luv luv, yuav luag cov plaub hau luv luv. Flappers, raws li txoj cai, xaiv garcon - hairstyle "hauv qab tus tub" los ntawm cov plaub hau luv. Nws tau nrov tom qab tso tawm zaj dab neeg ntawm Fabkis tus kws sau ntawv Victor Marguerite La Garçonne ("The Bachelorette") hauv xyoo 1922. Garcon tau hnav ob qho tib si nrog thiab tsis muaj bangs, cov plaub hau mus txog pob ntseg thiab muaj qhov pom tseeb. Nws yog ib qho yooj yim, yooj yim hairstyle uas tso cai rau cov poj niam rov qab qhia lawv txoj kev sib npaug nrog txiv neej.
Tab sis tsis yog tsuas yog txiav plaub hau luv xwb yeej lub siab ntawm fashionistas ntawm jazz era. Kev zam ntawm 20s thiab 30s muab cov plaub hau luv luv thiab zoo nkauj buns, siv tau rau cov neeg uas tsis xav txiav lawv cov plaub hau. Bandages dhau los ua ib qho tseem ceeb: lawv tau ua los ntawmluxurious fabrics, generously decorated nrog pearls thiab lace, xaiv rau txhua lub sijhawm thiab wardrobe. Xws li ib daim ntaub qhwv tau tsau rau ntawm lub hauv pliaj thiab suav hais tias yog ib qho cim ntawm khoom kim heev. Cov poj niam Emancipe kuj hnav cov plaub hau nets: ntxiv rau kev ua kom zoo nkauj ntshiab, lawv tuav lawv cov plaub hau, uas yog qhov tseem ceeb tshwj xeeb tshaj yog thaum yav tsaus ntuj gala thiab seev cev cua daj cua dub.
Bright pleev ua ib qho yuav tsum tau rau txhua tus fashionista ntawm lub suab nrov nees nkaum. Cov xim zoo nkauj daj tau hloov los ntawm kev ua yeeb yaj kiab cinematic. Cov poj niam pleev xim rau lawv daim di ncauj nyob rau hauv ci liab los yog caw xim xim, kos ib tug ua "hneev nti", generously siv hmoov thiab blush, kos nyias arches ntawm pob muag. Tshwj xeeb mloog yog kos rau lub qhov muag: tsaus ntxoov ntxoo thiab tuab dub eyeliner nyob rau hauv zam, nrog rau cov plaub muag cuav, decorated nrog hlaws dai thiab sparkles rau yav tsaus ntuj outings. Txoj kev tshiab rau haus luam yeeb yam tsis txaj muag yuav tsum tau hais txog ob txhais tes, yog li cov xim pleev xim rau cov ntsia hlau tau tshwm sim hauv xyoo 1920.
txiv neej fashion
Xyoo 1920, Tebchaws Meskas tau tshaj tawm txoj cai "qhuav", txwv tsis pub haus cawv los tsim, muag thiab haus thoob plaws tebchaws. Nws tau xav tias qhov no yuav txo qis kev loj hlob ntawm kev ua txhaum cai, daws teeb meem kev sib raug zoo thiab txhim kho kev noj qab haus huv ntawm cov neeg Amelikas, tab sis txhua yam hloov pauv txawv: kev noj nyiaj txiag thiab kev smuggling tau nquag txhim kho hauv Tebchaws Meskas. Cov tswv cuab ntawm pawg neeg ua txhaum cai tau pib hu ua gangsters. American fashion nyob rau hauv lub 20s thiab 30s poob nyob rau hauv lawv cov cawv: txiv neej, emulating cov style ntawm kev ua phem thawj coj Al Capone, hnav tsaus pinstripe los yog herringbone ob-breasted suits, ob-tone.khau thiab cov kaus mom, suspenders thiab cufflinks, rings thiab watches
Txiv neej kev zam ntawm 20s nyiam cov style classic. Ib tug txiv neej txoj kev hnav ris tsho xav tias lub tsho nrog lub duav siab thiab lub xub pwg nqaim: xws li kev txiav visually stretched silhouette. Lub jazz boom tau pab txhawb rau kev sib kis ntawm eponymous ce nrog nruj trousers thiab fitted tsho. Lwm cov qauv uas tuaj ntawm Oxford yog dav flannel trousers. Lawv pib hnav txhawm rau txhawm rau zais cov thom khwm ncaws pob uas poob rau hauv kev txwv nruj. Lub tailcoat yog maj mam rov qab mus rau yav dhau los, nws yog hloov los ntawm ib tug cropped tuxedo.
Russian fashion
Tsis yog sab hnub poob nkaus xwb los ntawm kev hloov pauv tshiab zam ntawm 20s. Russia - ntau qhov tseeb, twb yog USSR - sim ua kom zoo, lub ntiaj teb tiam sis tau xau mus rau hauv lub teb chaws uas tsis muaj "Iron Curtain" tsis tau. Thaum lub sij hawm no, thawj nyob rau hauv lub Union "Rhiav ntawm niaj hnub costume" tau qhib. Lavxias teb sab thiab Soviet zam designer Nadezhda Lamanova raug txib los tsim cov neeg ua haujlwm-cov neeg ua liaj ua teb zam, tab sis nws tau muab cov khoom pheej yig thiab ntxhib xwb. Thiab Fashion Atelier, tsim tom qab, tau txais ntawm nws cov khoom pov tseg, velvet thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav tuav los ntawm cov khoom ntawm cov neeg tsiv teb tsaws chaw.
NEP hauv Soviet Union tau hloov pauv kev puas tsuaj thiab kev txom nyem, avant-garde cov tswv yim thiab cov phiaj xwm kev tsim kho tau nyob hauv huab cua. Cov poj niam ntawm USSR, thiab nyob rau sab hnub poob, kuj nyiam ib tug me nyuam tub daim duab, xoob dresses, kaus mom thiab hniav nyiaj hniav kub. Lawv hnav ris tsho, haus luam yeeb hnyav, tsav tsheb thiab ua si kis las. Soviet cov poj niam ntawm zam kuj txiav lawv cov plaub hau luv luv, tab sis, tsis zoo liCov neeg Amelikas thiab cov neeg European, nyiam tsis txhob curl lawv. Avant-gardism coj mus rau hauv kev zam geometric ornament uas adorned poj niam outfits. Constructivists los ntawm cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub tau tshem tawm txhua yam uas xav tau ntau tshaj ntaub - tucks, cuffs thiab pleats.
Tej zaum tsis muaj ib lub xyoo caum dhau los thaum zam hloov pauv ntau heev hauv ob peb xyoos xwb. Zam ntawm 20s ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th yog ib qho tshwm sim uas hais txog kev yug me nyuam ntawm cov qauv tshiab, cov qauv thiab cov qauv.
