Cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws yog ib qho kev ua tiav zoo tshaj plaws ntawm tib neeg, vim tias tsuas yog nws tuaj yeem ua rau nws tus tswv nrog ntxim nyiam, uas muaj kev tshav ntuj tshwj xeeb thiab paub tsis meej. Pib ib zaj dab neeg txog dab tsi hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, nws yuav tsum tau muab sau tseg tias nws ntev tsis tau sawv saum lub pob taws. Cov khaub ncaws no tau pib luv luv nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 20th sai.
hnav khaub ncaws zoo li cas thaum ntxov 19th century
Keeb kwm ntawm cov khaub ncaws feem ntau sib txuas nrog cov qauv uas ua rau kev kos duab ntawm ib zaug lossis lwm qhov. Thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th yog cim los ntawm qhov tshwm sim ntawm lub teb chaws Ottoman style nyob rau hauv cov teb chaws Europe. Lub npe no los ntawm Fabkis lo lus "empire" thiab hais txog kev ua tub rog ntawm Napoleon, uas cov bourgeoisie nyiam. Lub teb chaws Ottoman txawv ntawm classicism, uas yog mus rau hauv keeb kwm, los ntawm ntau solemnity thiab pomposity.
Siv cov xim ilv dhau los, nws qhia qhov sib txawv. Thiab cov kab ntawm cov khaub ncaws zoo li lub siab, cov kab sib luag. Txhawm rau ua kom qhov zoo sib xws li ua tiav, hauv kev tsim cov khaub ncaws, ntom ntom monophonic fabrics nrogsymmetrical qauv hauv kev kho kom zoo nkauj. Lub silhouette ntws ua rau nws muaj peev xwm los tsim cov ntaub nyias nyias - gauze, muslin, batiste, uas tau siv los sheathe lub hauv paus ntom ntawm tiab. Cov proportions tseem zoo ib yam li nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 18th - lub duav siab thiab ib tug ncaj tiab nyob rau hauv ib tug ratio ntawm 1: 6. Tab sis muaj ntau ntau cov ntsiab lus zoo nkauj: ruffles thiab frills, lace thiab paj ntaub. Kev hnav khaub ncaws ntawm xyoo pua 19th (pib) muaj lub caj dab qis thiab lub tsho puff ntawm lub cuff. Feem ntau nws tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog lub tsheb ciav hlau. Cov khaub ncaws tuaj yeem ua tiav los ntawm shawl - txhob lo lo ntxhuav los yog ntaub plaub, nrog fringe los yog ciam teb nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm ornament.
How style tau hloov
Thaum pib ntawm peb caug xyoo 19th, lub duav siab pib rov qab mus rau qhov chaw raug. Lub romanticism uas kav nyob rau hauv kos duab qhuas sensuality thiab "lwm lub ntiaj teb no" ntiaj teb no, thiab nyob rau hauv cov style ntawm khaub ncaws thov kom lub cev zoo li delicately tsis yooj yim sua. Es tsis txhob ib tug slim thiab impregnable vajtswv poj niam thaum ub, tus poj niam tam sim no zoo li lub teeb, exquisite statuette. Nqaim corsets tuaj rau hauv kev zam, hnav ris tsho yuav tsum tau hais txog qhov nyias nyias ntawm lub duav ntawm nws tus tswv. Txhawm rau kom pom cov nyhuv no, cov neeg tsim qauv nthuav dav cov tiab, uas pib zoo li lub tswb, thiab txo lawv qhov ntev. Kev hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19 nthuav tawm cov pob taws zoo nkauj ntawm cov poj niam thiab xav tau cov ris tsho zoo nkauj ua ib qho khoom siv. Qhov tseem ceeb ntawm cov qauv tshiab yog kev txiav tshwj xeeb ntawm lub tes tsho - lub npe hu ua gigot ("Lamb's leg"). Lub tes tsho yog dav heev ntawm lub xub pwg nyom, thiab tapered hnyav heev los ntawm lub luj tshib mus rau lub cuff. Lub neckline yog npaj rau yav tsaus ntuj tawm, thaum nruab hnub cov poj niam tau npog nws nrog phuam qhwv caj dab, shawls los yog capes. Cov khaub ncaws tau dav dav dai kom zoo nkauj nrog ribbon thiab lace.
19th century hnav khaub ncaws: forties thiab fifties
Lub sijhawm no, corsets nruj dua lub duav txawm tias nruj dua, thiab tiab nthuav dav vim muaj ntau ntawm cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg. Lub tiab qis tshaj plaws tau ua los ntawm cov plaub hau thiab tuab linen, yog li lo lus "crinoline" tau yug los. Qhov ntev ntawm cov khaub ncaws rov qab mus rau yav dhau los, lub silhouette ntawm lub tes tsho tsis zoo li nws yog kaum xyoo dhau los. Cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub ntawm cov khaub ncaws kuj tau txwv ntau dua. Nyob rau hauv lub 50s, crinolines pib ua los ntawm whalebone los yog hlau hlau. Lawv loj thiab heev reminiscent ntawm ib puag ncig noog. Cov tiab tau dav incredibly. Kab rov tav flounces nyob rau hauv ob peb kab decorated lawv hauv qab no. Dawb dab tshos thiab cuffs tuaj rau hauv kev zam. Shining silks los ntawm Lyon yog cov khoom siv tshaj plaws, los ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th pob tiab tau sewn, thiab cov ris tsho zoo nkauj rau kev taug kev caij ntuj sov. Muaj tseeb tiag, thawj tus tau ntxiv nrog cov khoom dai kom zoo nkauj.
Thaum kawg ntawm lub rau caum, cov silhouettes ntawm dresses tau hloov.
Qab lawv voluminous thiab lush, tab sis nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej thiab los ntawm ob sab lawv ua nqaim thiab tiaj tus. Cov nyhuv no tau ua tiav los ntawm kev siv cov khoom siv nyiaj siv ua haujlwm - bustles, uas tau muab tso rau hauv qab ntawm lub duav kab. Qhov ntim ntawm qhov qis ntawm qhov hnav ris tsho tau hais txog los ntawm cov ntaub qhwv ntawm sab nraub qaum. Nyob rau hauv pem hauv ntej, qis ib feem ntawm lub tiab tau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog paj ntaub, bows, lace los yog pleating. Lub silhouette zoo li slender thiab zoo kawg nkaus graceful. Ib qho kev nplua nuj ntawm cov khoom dai kom paub qhov txawv ntawm cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th ntawm 70-80s. Qhov ntau intricate thiab inventive cov hniav nyiaj hniav kub, qhov zoo dua. Flounces, festoons, embroideredqauv nrog pearls, thiab lwm yam., nkaum lub ntuj daim duab ntawm tus poj niam los ntawm lub qhov muag. Qhov tsuas yog qhov tshwj xeeb stylistic rau txoj cai yog lub npe hu ua "tus ntxhais huab tais" hnav khaub ncaws, uas yog ib qho thiab nthuav tawm cov xwm txheej ntawm daim duab.
sijhawm hloov pauv
Lub sijhawm kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th thiab pib ntawm lub xyoo pua tshiab tau dhau los ua tus chij ntawm kev niaj hnub. Kev zoo nkauj ntawm kev tsim khoom hauv kev zam ntawm yav dhau los muab txoj hauv kev rau pragmatic-natural silhouettes. Lub bustle tau hloov mus rau tren - ntev, sib sau ua ke hauv cov rooj sib txoos, canvas qab. Lub bodice tau ua nruj dua thiab nqaim. Hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv cov style ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th (lig) muaj tus yam ntxwv S-zoo li tus silhouette: lub "pigeon hauv siab" yog sib npaug los ntawm puffy rov qab. Maj mam, cov tiab tau txais ib qho yooj yim, flared zoo, lub dab tshos ntawm tiab tau siab thiab kaw. Kev zam yav dhau los rau lub tes tsho "ram's ceg" lub tes tsho uas flared sai sai ploj mus, muab txoj hauv kev yooj yim contours.
Fabkis saj
Fabkis tseem yog tus trendsetter, zoo li nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua dhau los. Parisian styles dawb "taug kev" los ntawm lub teb chaws mus rau lub teb chaws, tsis txawm dhau los ntawm orthodox Nyiv. Kev tsim kho ntawm Gallic couturiers txiav txim siab qhov zoo ntawm hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th (duab). England teb nrog ntau tus qauv txwv nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm qhib lub cev, Russia nruj me ntsis raws li cov ntaub ntawv muab. Lub teb chaws Yelemees tau hloov kho rau cov qauv uas tau hais tseg, raws li nws tus cwj pwm ncaj nraim rau qhov tseeb.
19th caug xyoo lub tsho tshaj sab
Cov neeg niaj hnub nco qab tias cov khoom ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd tuaj yeem qhuas zoo li qub bas-reliefs lossis Etruscanvases. Cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws ua tau zoo heev thiab lom zem heev. Lub decollete yog qhov yuav tsum tau ua: sib sib zog nqus - rau cov poj niam sib yuav, thiab tsis muaj zog - rau cov tsis tau sib yuav. Cov hnab looj tes ntev ntawm cov xim dawb lossis xim daj, hla dhau ntawm txoj kab ntawm lub luj tshib, lub kiv cua lush, khau nrog qhov ruaj khov thiab qis heels yog cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov poj niam lub pob costume. Hnub nyoog txiav txim siab qhov style ntawm ib pab tub rog. Cov tub ntxhais hluas flaunted nyob rau hauv elegant, unpretentious lub teeb-xim dresses, thaum cov poj niam laus qhia tau hais tias lub splendor ntawm designer delights nyob rau hauv tag nrho cov quab yuam. Tab sis nyob rau hauv ob qho tib si, ib tug poj niam nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19 zoo li ib tug exquisitely npaj biscuit ncuav mog qab zib nrog cream thiab cream.
