Lub Dolce Gabanna lub caij nplooj zeeg-lub caij ntuj no 2012-2013 sau nthuav tawm ib qho tshiab hauv ntiaj teb ntawm khau. Cov qauv raug coj mus rau theem catwalk hnav khau perforated hauv cov txiv neej style. Cov duab poj niam ntawm cov qauv zam tau ua tiav los ntawm kev txiav txim siab oxfords thiab derbies. Raws li nws tau muab tawm, khau tsis muaj pob taws tuaj yeem muab elegance nyob rau hauv ib tug ntxhais lub wardrobe. Tsim los rau cov txiv neej, derby nkawm khau tam sim no yog ib qho tseem ceeb hauv txhua qhov niaj hnub fashionista lub txee dai khaub ncaws.
cov cag tuaj qhov twg?
Tsawg tus neeg tuaj rau hauv lub khw tab tom nrhiav ib hom khau tshwj xeeb los ntawm lacing lossis perforation kev faib tawm. Qhov no tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau cov txiv neej. Yog tias ib tug neeg xav tau khau, ces nws mus rau lawv thiab pib pom, thiab tom qab ntawd thaum lub sij hawm haum nws xaiv qhov kev xaiv tsim nyog. Thiab cov tub ntxhais hluas thiab cov poj niam uas ua raws li qhov tseeb zam, nkag siab txog kev faib cov khau thiab nws keeb kwm, mus sim kom thiaj li yuav oxfords, loafers, hauj sam lossis derbies.
Qhov tseeb, tag nrho cov npe thiab hom khau uas tau los tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 19th. Derby - khau, duab thiab piav qhia uas tau luam tawm nyob rau hauv St. Crispin's (dating rov qab mus rau 1872), tau yeej ntau tus kiv cua ntev.
Lwm qhov xwm txheej keeb kwm txuas nrog lub ntsej muag ntawm derby thiab lawv lub npe thib ob hauv tebchaws Askiv - "bluechers". Qhov no yog kev tsim cov khau rau cov tub rog los ntawm Prussian marshal. Thaum lub sijhawm Tsov Rog Napoleonic, tus tub ceev xwm Blucher tau txiav txim siab tso nws cov tub rog hauv cov khau khiab zoo nkauj uas yuav haum rau tus tub rog ntawm txhua ko taw dav thiab yooj yim rau hnav thiab tshem tawm.
Dab tsi tshwj xeeb?
Ib tug neeg yooj yim nyeem cov kab lus no yuav muaj lus nug: "Yuav ua li cas thiaj nrhiav tau cov khau derby nrov no hauv txhua yam ntawm cov khw muag khau khau?" Txhawm rau teb cov lus nug no, koj tsis tas yuav yog tus kws tshaj lij hauv kev txiav cov khau, tab sis nws tsim nyog paub qee yam ntawm lawv cov ntsiab lus.
Bertsy yog ib qho ntawm cov khau khiab ntawm cov hlua khi thiab cov buckles. Nws ntog nyob rau hauv tus tsim ntawm nkawm khau ntawm lub nraub qaum. Tsis hnav ntau npaum li cas piv rau vamp uas npog sab saum toj ntawm ko taw.
Lub ntsiab feature ntawm Derby nkawm khau yog lawv qhib lacing hom, piv nrog ib tug zoo xws li khau qauv - Oxfords, uas yog txawv los ntawm kaw lacing. Yog tsis saib cov duab ntawm ob lub khau classic, nws nyuaj rau xav txog lawv cov tsos.
Yog tias koj txheeb xyuas qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm kev xaws oxfords thiab derbies, koj tuaj yeem pom tias hauv thawj version lub vamp yog sewn hla lub berets. Ntawd yog, derby yog khau (daim duab uas tau pom ntawm sab laug ko taw hauv daim duab saum toj no), uas muaj sab saum toj stitched nyob rau sab saum toj.khoom.
Derby - hom khau classic nrog lacing
Muaj kev xav tias nkawm khau uas haum rau ib ce yog ib qho kev xaiv khau nruj. Tam sim no qhov ntau ntawm cov qauv classic muaj ntau haiv neeg uas nws ua rau nws tuaj yeem hnav tsis tau tsuas yog nrog cov ris luv, tab sis kuj nrog ris ntauv txhav thiab txawm tias luv. Qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws thaum xaiv khaub ncaws yog yuav tsum paub txog kev faib cov khau classic, cov qauv uas yog perforation thiab lacing.
Lub xub ntiag ntawm lacing yog ib qho cim ntawm kev lag luam khau. Yog tias nws ploj lawm, ces cov khau haum rau cov rooj sib tham tsis raug cai.
A tailcoat, tuxedo thiab ib lub tsho classic feem ntau ua tiav nrog cov oxfords nruj. Nyob ntawm cov qauv xim, derby - txiv neej khau - tuaj yeem ua tus cwj pwm ntawm ob qho tib si hauv chaw ua haujlwm thiab tsis raws cai. Monks thiab loafers yog cov laceless hom classic khau. Ib tug yam ntxwv feature ntawm loafers yog lub xub ntiag ntawm hniav ntsiab nyob rau hauv daim ntawv ntawm tawv tassels. Cov hauj sam muaj buckles.
Nyob ntawm perforation
Txhua yam khau classic uas tau hais hauv ntu dhau los tuaj yeem ua tiav nrog cov ntsiab lus perforated. Hauv qhov no, khau yog hu ua brogues. Lub hauv paus chiv keeb ntawm perforation ntseeg tau tias yog khau ntawm cov neeg ua liaj ua teb hauv tebchaws Ireland, uas tau pib xuas nrig ntaus kom ntws dej los ntawm ko taw. Tam sim no dig muag perforation tau tsiv mus rau txiv neej thiab poj niam khau. Nws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom paub tias cov khau dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov ntsiab lus no tsis haum rau kev sib tham.
Ib yam ntawm brogers yog tus ntiv taw detachable (sock)thiab perforated seams ntawm cov khau txuas nrog. Nyob ntawm thaj chaw nyob los ntawm cov khoom xuas nrig ntaus, muaj 4 hom khau: tsis muaj perforation, semi-brogues, quarter brogues thiab tag nrho cov khau perforated.
Derby poj niam: khau, duab
Tom qab Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 1, thaum ntau tus txiv neej tsis rov qab los, ntau yam teeb meem poob rau poj niam lub xub pwg nyom. Nyob rau hauv kev twb kev txuas nrog rau cov kev hloov no, cov duab ntawm ib tug poj niam cev xeeb tub tau txais masculine nta. Trouser suits, hnav ris tsho thiab tiab saum lub hauv caug, cov plaub hau txiav, qhov muag tsaus - tag nrho cov yam ntxwv no tau dhau los ua qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev tsim "garcon" style, hauv kev txhais niaj hnub no paub txhua tus neeg ua unisex.
Txiv neej style hauv poj niam nkawm khau tau nrov txog 3 xyoos dhau los. Yog li, khau nrog laces tshwm sim los ntawm cov khoom sib txawv thiab hauv cov xim sib txawv. Derby - cov poj niam khau - tsis zoo li cov txiv neej cov khoom sib xws, lawv muaj pob taws txog li 5 cm thiab lub teeb ci. Piv txwv li, muaj cov qauv ntawm beige derbies nrog ib tug tsaus nti cut-off ntiv taw thiab dub laces, los yog txawm nrog ib tug floral print. Ntawd yog, cov poj niam cov qauv derby hauv cov xim muaj ntau dua daring dua li cov txiv neej cov kev xav ntawm cov khau.
Derby (khau): hnav dab tsi?
Cov khau dub nrog lacing, tsis muaj cov hlua dai kom zoo nkauj thiab cov qauv perforated yog suav tias yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov txheej txheem cej luam. Los ntawm txoj kev, thom khwm rau cov rooj sib tham tseem raug xaiv raws li cov xim ntawm lub ris lossis khau. Raws li rau lub lacquer tsim ntawm nkawm khau, rau ib tug txiv neej saib, xws li khau yuav tsim nyog rau ib tug festive kev tshwm sim, tab sis tsis rau.hnav txhua hnub. Nyob rau hauv ib tug poj niam wardrobe, patent derby nkawm khau yuav tsum tau ceev faj lub ntsiab lus ntawm ib tug txheej ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Cov ris tsho tawv 7/8 mus zoo nrog cov khau zoo sib xws, qhia txog pob taws uas tsis zais los ntawm thom khwm lossis lub hauv caug siab.
Cov ris tsho nyiam yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntxiv rau suede derbies. Txij li cov ris tsho hnav tsis tau suav tias yog kev ua lag luam, khau kuj tuaj yeem ua xim ci.
Qhov tsis muaj pob taws siab tsis txhais hais tias khau garcon style tsis haum nrog tiab lossis tiab. Interestingly, lub derby tuaj yeem hnav nrog lossis tsis nruj.
Cov neeg siv tshuaj xyuas
Txij li qhov muaj zog ntawm tib neeg tsis tshua muaj kev sib tham, nws yog qhov nyuaj heev kom ua tau raws li cov lus pom zoo txog kev yooj yim ntawm nkawm khau nrog qhib lacing hom. Nws tsis muaj teeb meem loj mus rau lub rooj sib tham poj niam, qhov twg txhua yam ntawm cov khau derby raug pleev xim rau!
Qhov zoo ntawm cov khau no yog qhov yooj yim. Qhov tsis muaj stilettos thiab cov ntiv taw hnyav hnyav tso cai rau koj hnav derby, thaum koj xis nyob hauv koj txhais taw. Qhov thib ob kom zoo dua ntawm nkawm khau yog ib qho txawv txawv tsim, ua nyob rau hauv ib tug txiv neej style. Derbies tau dhau los ua qhov hloov pauv zoo rau ballerinas, ntxiv rau nrog cov tuab tuab, ua rau lawv cov khau tseem ceeb rau lub caij nplooj zeeg los nag.
Cov poj niam kuj tau sau tseg qhov tseeb ntawm universality hauv kev xaiv khaub ncaws. Lawv tuaj yeem ua ke nrog kev ua lag luam hneev nti thiab ib yam nkaus.
Txawm li cas los xij, tag nrho cov txiaj ntsig no tuaj yeem cuam tshuam los ntawm qhov tsis zoo. Yog li ntawd, ua ntej kev yuav khoom, cov tswv zoo siab derby pom zoocoj kom zoo dua ntawm cov lus qhia rau kev xaiv khau zoo.
Tus nqi
Lub hom, qhov zoo ntawm cov khoom tseem ceeb, muaj cov khoom siv zoo nkauj thiab qhov tshwj xeeb ntawm tus qauv tsim yog cov khoom ntawm tus nqi ntawm cov khau. Raws li lub Kaum Ib Hlis 2015, cov txiv neej khau derby muaj kev sib tw hauv tus nqi ntawm 5,300 rubles rau 11,300 rubles, poj niam - los ntawm 3,000 rubles rau 7,000 rubles.
Yog tias peb tig mus rau qhov chaw txawv teb chaws, ces cov qauv saum toj kawg nkaus ntawm cov tuam txhab paub zoo raug nqi los ntawm 1000 USD. Los ntawm Tuam Tshoj, koj tuaj yeem tau txais ib pob nrog cov khau zam los ntawm kev them 1,500 rubles.