Nyob rau hauv Nyiv, cov tsoos tsho yog, ntawm chav kawm, kimono. Qhov no cim lub hnub thiab nws nce, thiab lub teb chaws yog nto moo rau kev nruj kev cai ntawm tag nrho cov kab lig kev cai. Muaj ob hom kev hnav khaub ncaws hauv tebchaws: official thiab xws li. Txhua tus neeg Nyij Pooj yuav tsum muaj tsawg kawg ib qho kimono hauv lawv lub wardrobe.
Japanese costume feature
Outwardly, cov Japanese hnav ris tsho zoo li lub tsho ntev, qhov ntev ntawm qhov sib txawv. Hauv qhov no, txoj siv sia yog obi - ib daim ntaub qhwv tshwj xeeb uas khi cov kimono nyob ib ncig ntawm lub duav. Tsis muaj cov nyees khawm, tsuas yog cov hlua thiab cov hlua. Cov ris tsho hauv tebchaws Nyij Pooj txawv ntawm lub tsho tshaj sab hauv uas nws lub tes tsho dav dua li ntawm caj npab.
Kimono fabrics tsis ncab zoo. Cov ntaub siv los ua obi.
Cov neeg Nyij Pooj ua cov qauv duab plaub, tsis zoo li cov neeg European uas nyiam cov duab sib npaug. Qhov no yuav pab txuag tau cov khoom siv, vim tias cov khoom seem yuav rov qab siv tau rau ntawm thaj teb.
Historical foundations
Ntawm Japanese tsooscostume tuaj yeem raug xaiv los ntawm ib qho ntawm peb lo lus:
- kimono, lossis tsuas yog ib qho hnav ris tsho;
- wafuku, lossis Japanese khaub ncaws;
- gofuku, los yog khaub ncaws suav.
Kimono yog qhov qub tshaj plaws. Lo lus no qhia txog txhua tus cwj pwm ntawm lub wardrobe nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th nyob rau hauv Nyiv. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 16th, cov Portuguese nyob rau hauv lawv cov ntaub ntawv qhia hais tias cov Japanese siv lo lus "kimono" los hais txog cov khaub ncaws. Thiab lawv tau pib siv nws hauv ntau lub tebchaws. Nyob rau hauv thaj av ntawm Rising Sun, kimono yog ib lub tswv yim thoob ntiaj teb ntawm khaub ncaws. Cov neeg nyob sab Europe siv lo lus no los txhais lus Nyij Pooj.
Thaum kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua 19th, feem ntau ntawm cov neeg Nyij Pooj tau txais kev hnav khaub ncaws sab hnub poob. Tab sis cov Japanese hnav ris tsho txawv txawv los ntawm European ib qho, yog li cov neeg yuav tsum tau cais cov cwj pwm no los ntawm kev xaiv "kimono". Yog li ntawd, lo lus "wafuku" tau yug.
Cov neeg nyob niaj hnub ntawm thaj av ntawm Lub Hnub Sawv Cev hnav khaub ncaws Nyij Pooj feem ntau rau hnub so thiab hnub tshwj xeeb.
lus nug zoo nkauj
Ib yam tshwj xeeb ntawm kimono yog tias nws zais qhov tsis zoo ntawm tib neeg daim duab. Hauv Tebchaws Europe, cov khaub ncaws hais txog qhov chaw ntawm lub cev, thaum nyob rau hauv Nyiv, tsuas yog lub duav thiab lub xub pwg nyom sawv. Cov European style yog tus cwj pwm los ntawm kev nyem ntawm cov khaub ncaws, thiab Japanese style yog uniformity. Xws li kev hlub rau cov qauv tsim yog vim qhov tseeb tias cov neeg Nyij Pooj ua raws li txoj cai hais txog qhov tsis txaus ntseeg ntawm bulges thiab kev zoo nkauj ntawm lub dav hlau.
Piv txwv li, cov poj niam European hnav corset kom nqaim lub duav, tab sis rau kimono, lub cev zoo tagnrho tsis yog qhov tseem ceeb. Qhov twgNws yog ib qho tseem ceeb kom muaj cov tawv nqaij zoo ntawm lub ntsej muag, vim qhov kev zoo nkauj ntawm lub cev yog tsis pom lawm.
Style
Japanese costume tuaj yeem ua tau zoo thiab muaj kev lom zem. Lub formality ntawm cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv cov xim. Cov poj niam hluas tuaj yeem hnav kimonos lub tsho ntev hauv cov xim ci nrog ntau cov luam tawm txhua hnub, tab sis rau cov poj niam laus, cov qauv txwv tau muab ntau dua.
Japanese costume rau cov txiv neej yog nthuav tawm nyob rau hauv ib lub tsho thiab hauv cov xim tsaus. Tsis tas li ntawd, cov qauv ntawm kimono tuaj yeem txiav txim los ntawm cov khoom siv thiab tsev neeg crests. Ntawm cov khaub ncaws zoo tshaj plaws, koj tuaj yeem pom 5 tsev neeg crests. Festive kimonos yog tsim los ntawm txhob lo lo ntxhuav, thaum xws li kimonos yog ua los ntawm paj rwb fabrics.
poj niam suit
Tam sim no nws nyuaj rau cov poj niam Nyij Pooj hnav ris tsho Japanese poj niam rau lawv tus kheej, vim lawv tsis muaj kev paub zoo. Ib tus qauv kimono muaj 12-15 ntu, yog li qhov nyuaj. Txawm tias geisha, nruj me ntsis ua raws li tag nrho cov cai thiab kev coj noj coj ua, tsis tuaj yeem ua yam tsis muaj kev pab los ntawm peb tog. Cov kws tshaj lij hauv kev ua "kev hnav khaub ncaws" cov neeg tuaj yeem raug hu tom tsev lossis pom hauv cov chaw ua kom zoo nkauj.
Muaj ntau hom poj niam kimonos hauv Nyiv. Txhua khaub ncaws muaj nws lub npe.
- Ib tug poj niam lub tsho uas muaj cov qauv hauv qab lub duav hu ua kurotomesode. Feem ntau, qhov no yog ib tug kimono dub - ib tug nom hnav ris tsho ntawm cov poj niam Japanese sib yuav. Feem ntau xws li lub tsho tiv no tuaj yeem pom ntawm kab tshoob kev kos, cov poj niam laus hnav ris tsho hauv nws. Lub tes tsho, nraub qaum yog dai kom zoo nkauj nrog tsev neeg lub tsho tiv no ntawm caj npab.
- Kimono nrog lub tsho ntev heev hu uafurisode. Rau cov ntxhais uas tsis tau sib yuav, qhov no yog qhov kev xaiv zoo tshaj plaws rau kev hnav khaub ncaws.
- Cov tsoos tsho dawb ntawm cov poj niam Nyij Pooj nrog cov qauv hauv qab lub duav yog hu ua irotomesode. Ib qho kev sib txawv tsawg dua nrog peb mus rau tsib tsev neeg crests.
- Kimono rau kev txais tos hu ua homongi. Lub xub pwg ntu yog pleev xim rau. Txhua tus poj niam raug tso cai hnav khaub ncaws zoo li no, tsis hais txoj haujlwm twg.
- Tsukesage, lossis kimono nrog me ntsis ornamentation hauv qab lub duav.
- Cov khaub ncaws rau cov tshuaj yej ib txwm muaj hu ua iromuji. Feem ntau cov hnav ris tsho yog dai kom zoo nkauj nrog jacquard qauv, thiab hnav nws tus kheej yog dawb.
- Komon, lossis hnav ris tsho, pleev xim nrog cov qauv me me. Cov khaub ncaws no tuaj yeem hnav tsawg kawg txhua hnub ntawm kev taug kev, hauv tsev noj mov thiab txawm tias thaum lub rooj sib tham, koj tsuas yog yuav tsum tau khi obi haum.
- Kimono nrog peas hu ua komon edo. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo dhau los, qhov no yog cov tsoos tsho ntawm Japanese samurai. Tam sim no cov khaub ncaws no tuaj yeem muab piv nrog homongi, qhov twg muaj tsev neeg crests.
Kimonos rau txiv neej
Tsis zoo li cov poj niam, Nyiv cov txiv neej lub tsho zoo li ntau tus qauv thiab yooj yim: nws suav nrog 5 ntu, uas suav nrog khau. Cov txiv neej lub kimono muaj lub tes tsho sewn rau sab seam. Raws li qhov tshwm sim, tsuas yog 10 cm ntawm lub tes tsho tsis pub dawb.
Qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb ntawm tus txiv neej lub tsho thiab poj niam lub tsho yog xim. Rau xaws kimonos, fabrics ntsuab, dub, xim av thiab xiav yog siv, uas yog, tsaus. Feem ntau, cov khoom siv matte raug xaiv. Lub teeb kimononrog cov qauv tsis tu ncua lossis luam tawm, lawv hnav tsuas yog hnub ua haujlwm. Hauv ib puag ncig kev ua kis las, lub tsho burgundy-liab yog hnav los ntawm sumo wrestlers.
Hnub nyoog thiab poj niam txiv sib txawv
Txhua tus poj niam hnav ib qho qauv ntawm kimono, txhua yam nyob ntawm hnub nyoog thiab xwm txheej. Qhov no kuj siv tau rau cov txiv neej uas nws lub tsho muaj lub tes tsho luv nrog cov ces kaum ntse. Cov poj niam sib yuav hnav khaub ncaws hnav nrog lub tes tsho ntev thiab cov fab sib npaug. Cov poj niam hluas Nyij Pooj yuav tsum hnav lub tsho ntev thiab puag ncig. Thiab cov me nyuam hnav khaub ncaws kimono zoo li ib tug txiv neej. Los ntawm qhov ntse ntawm cov ces kaum, ib tus tuaj yeem txiav txim siab ntawm tus neeg. Cov txiv neej muaj qhov siab tshaj plaws, hos cov ntxhais muaj qis tshaj.
Nws hloov tawm tias hauv Nyij Pooj txawm tias cov menyuam yaus muaj xwm txheej siab dua cov hluas. Cov menyuam yaus tuaj yeem zam txim tau ntau, uas tsis tuaj yeem hais txog cov ntxhais hluas.
Obi kuj txawv. Cov txiv neej khi ib pab tub rog nrog ib txoj siv nqaim, tab sis cov poj niam, ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, nrog lub dav. Thiab txoj kev khi sib txawv.
Kev xaws khaub ncaws poj niam, koj yuav tsum siv ntaub ntau dua, thiab tag nrho vim nws tsis sewn rau qhov siab, tab sis ntev dua. Nyob rau hauv cov ntaub ntawv ntawm tus txiv neej version, txhua yam yog yooj yim: txhua qhov ntau thiab tsawg sib haum rau tus tswv tsis.
Kimono DIY
Kimono - cov khaub ncaws uas tsis muaj qhov loj me, tsuas yog qhov ntev ntawm cov khoom tseem ceeb thaum xaws. Yog tias koj xav nkaum ib daim ntaub hauv qab txoj siv, nws yog ib qho tsim nyog xaiv obi dav. Txhawm rau tsim ib lub dab tshos, koj yuav tsum siv cov duab plaub ntawm cov ntaub. Lub dab tshos tuaj yeem muab zais hauv qab txoj siv lossis sab laug dai. Lub tes tsho ntev yuav tsum yog tsawg kawg54 cm thiab dav txog 75 cm.
Yog li, yuav ua li cas hnav khaub ncaws Japanese nrog koj tus kheej txhais tes? Ua ntej koj yuav tsum tau txiav ib daim duab plaub rau sab nraub qaum. Ua ntej tshaj plaws, txiav tawm "rov qab" - ib lub duab plaub. Rau pem hauv ntej, koj xav tau tib lub strip, tab sis txiav hauv ib nrab. Ntawm lub workpiece rau sab nraub qaum, txiav tawm lub caj dab nrog ib txoj kab uas hla sib npaug rau ib nrab-girth ntawm caj dab. Txhawm rau tsim lub tes tsho, koj yuav tsum siv 4 qhov ntev ntawm cov duab plaub thiab xaws rau hauv ob lub kav dej dav (2 qhov chaw txhua). Cov strips pem hauv ntej yog sewn mus rau sab nraub qaum raws kab ntawm lub xub pwg nyom - lub neckline. Lub tes tsho yuav tsum tau txuas nrog lub resulting sab seams. Rau sab nraub qaum thiab apron ntawm cov khaub ncaws koj yuav tsum tau xaws "cov kav dej" uas quav hauv ib nrab. Tom qab ntawd koj tuaj yeem xaws hauv qab lub tes tsho rov qab thiab pem hauv ntej. Qhov tshwm sim yog lub tsho tshaj sab, zoo ib yam li qhia hauv daim duab kos duab ntawm Japanese lub teb chaws costume hauv qab no.
Extensions nrog cov duab plaub txiav yog txuas rau pem hauv ntej kom dhau lub dab tshos. Cov khoom kimono no tuaj yeem ua los ntawm ob lub strips uas tau sewn ua ke (6 cm yog qhov dav dav). Qhov nruab nrab ntawm dab tshos yog sewn rau lub caj dab, thiab tom qab ntawd mus rau ntu ntawm cov txuas ntxiv. Qhov dav ntawm txoj siv yuav tsum yog tsawg kawg yog 70 cm.
Txawm cov neeg European txaus siab rau qhov ua tau zoo thiab yooj yim ntawm Japanese lub tebchaws hnav khaub ncaws.