Couture yog ib yam tshwj xeeb thiab tej yam yees siv. High fashion nyiam, captivates tsis tau tsuas yog nrog ib tug abundance ntawm kim hniav ntsiab thiab ilv fabrics, tab sis kuj nrog nws cov inaccessibility. Cov khaub ncaws Haute couture yog qhov kev zoo siab kim uas yog tsim rau ib tus neeg hauv ib daim qauv. Dab tsi ua rau lub suab nrov nyob ib ncig ntawm qhov tshwm sim tau piav qhia, nyeem rau.
History of tshwm sim
Cov ntsiab lus ntawm "haute couture" thiab "siab zam" tau tshwm sim nyob rau hauv nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, thaum thawj lub khw muag khaub ncaws pib ua haujlwm. Tom qab ntawd cov neeg tsim qauv zam tau txais lub zog thoob plaws ntiaj teb thiab hais txog lawv tus kheej cov cai rau tib neeg. Tsim chav dej los ntawm satin thiab txhob lo lo ntxhuav fabrics, dai kom zoo nkauj nrog pearls thiab precious pob zeb, tig lub taub hau ntawm ib tug zoo nkauj ib nrab ntawm tib neeg, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov neeg sawv cev ntawm nobility.
Tus tsim ntawm haute couture yog Charles Frederick Worth, tus neeg Askiv uas tau qhib nws lub tsev zam hauv Paris, qhov chaw ua yeeb yam thiab lub khw muag khoom kim heev tau ua ke. Zoo kawg nkaus ua hauj lwm ntawm hnav ris tsho rau madamMetternich coj qhov tsim nyog tsis tau muaj dua li qhov muaj koob meej thiab qhov kev ntsuam xyuas zoo ntawm Empress Eugenie Montijo.
Nws tuaj yeem hais tau tias Charles tsim cov hauv paus ntsiab lus ntawm "siab" xaws: tus cwj pwm rau cov khaub ncaws raws li ib qho kev kos duab cais thiab tshwj xeeb yog xuas tes ua. Nws cov khoom tsim tau raug khaws cia thiab niaj hnub no dai qhov chaw ntawm kev hwm hauv tsev cia puav pheej.
Nyob rau xyoo 1868, Paris Committee ntawm Kev Lag Luam Kev Lag Luam ntawm Kev Lag Luam Khaub Ncaws (High Fashion Syndicate) tau qhib, uas tseem koom nrog cov khw muag khoom nto moo thiab cov tuam txhab hauv Paris. Ntawm no yog txoj hmoo ntawm kev zam tiam sis txiav txim siab, teeb meem kev cai lij choj hauv kev lag luam no raug daws.
Cov Lus Qhia dav dav
Couture tsis yog tsim-rau- ntsuas cov khaub ncaws lub npe lossis cov khoom uas yooj yim nrhiav hauv khw muag khoom. Ua ntej ntawm tag nrho cov, qhov no yog uniqueness nyob rau hauv lub literal siab. Txhawm rau kom lub tsev zam tsim cov khaub ncaws haute couture, yuav tsum tau ua raws li cov cai hauv qab no:
- Kev tsim khoom yuav tsum poob rau hauv kev txiav txim siab ntawm Fab Kis Fab Kev Lag Luam Fab Kis. Yog li, lub ntsiab studio, tag nrho cov kev cob qhia thiab cov tuam txhab khw muag khoom yuav tsum nyob rau hauv lub peev ntawm Fabkis - Paris. Qhov no lav kev ruaj ntseg raws cai.
- Cov neeg ua haujlwm tsawg kawg yog nees nkaum tus neeg ua haujlwm.
- Cov khoom sau yuav raug nthuav tawm ob zaug hauv ib xyoos (ob kab raws caij nyoog). Ntxiv mus, lub defile qhia ntau tshaj peb caug dresses rau hnub thiab yav tsaus ntuj. Lub Limtiam Haute Couture tsis muaj dab tsi cuam tshuam nrog kev npaj-rau-hnav thiab tshwm sim thaum Lub Ib Hlis thiab Lub Xya Hli (feem ntau ntawm Croiselle du Louvre).
Tseem muajlub tswv yim ntawm "cov tswv cuab sib thooj" - cov tsev txawv teb chaws nrog lub tsev hauv paus hauv lwm lub xeev. Lawv raug caw los ua yeeb yam, tab sis vim qhov tseeb tias cov tuam txhab tsis ua raws li tag nrho cov qauv, lawv tsuas yog hu ua "couture".
Lub ntsiab feature ntawm cov khaub ncaws haute couture:
- tailoring raws li tus neeg siv khoom tsis muaj (qhov tsawg kawg ntawm cov fittings yog 3);
- tsim tshwj xeeb;
- siv cov ntaub tshwj xeeb tshwj xeeb;
- kho kom zoo nkauj nrog pob zeb muaj nuj nqis (feem ntau tsev neeg jewels).
Basic rules
A haute couture outfits tsis yog kev yuav khoom xwb. Nws tseem yog lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb, paub txog qee cov cai thiab lub luag haujlwm:
- khaub ncaws hnav khaub ncaws tsuas yog yuav rau lub sijhawm tshwj xeeb (cov ntaub pua plag liab, pob muaj koob muaj npe, thiab lwm yam).
- Koj tuaj yeem hnav khaub ncaws ib zaug xwb. Kev rov tso tawm rau hauv ib lub khaub ncaws raug tso cai tom qab kaum lossis kaum tsib xyoos, thaum qhov khoom tuaj yeem hu ua vintage.
- Yam yuav tus poj niam yuav tsum muaj tsawg kawg yog kaum rau xyoo (kev coj ncaj ncees twb koom nrog).
- Tau siab ntev rau qhov tshwm sim.
Nws tsim nyog sau cia tias muaj ntau lub hnub qub (singers, actresses, qauv) xauj ib tiab. Qhov kev txav no pab lub tsev nrhiav cov neeg yuav khoom muaj txiaj ntsig ntau dua.
Founders ntawm haute couture tsev
Ntaus fashion designers uas tuaj yeem tsim cov haute couture creations:
- Giorgio Armani yog Italian couturier uas tsim Armani. Nyob rau hauv 2005, nws thawj zaug launched nws tus kheej haute couture sau hu ua Armani. Prive.
- Cristóbal Balenciaga yog tus tsim qauv Spanish zam uas tsim lub tsev haute couture Balenciaga. Nws raug suav hais tias yog tus tsim nkaus xwb uas muaj peev xwm ua qauv ntawm nws tus kheej, txiav, txiav thiab xaws.
- Pierre Balmain yog tus tsim qauv Fab Kis Fab Kis uas nws cov khaub ncaws tau kov yeej tsis yog zam kev taug kev nkaus xwb, tab sis kuj yog cov yeeb yaj kiab zoo.
- Gianni Versace yog ib tug txiv neej uas ua ke ob qhov zoo tshaj plaws: suab paj nruag thiab zam.
- Christian Dior yog Fabkis couturier uas ntau tus thawj coj tsim cov yeeb yaj kiab legendary.
- Hubert James Marcel Taffin de Givenchy yog ib zaug dua tus tsim zam los ntawm Fab Kis, uas nws txoj kev xav thiab kev xav hauv ntiaj teb tau tsim los ntawm ob lub hnub qub thiab cov hluas nkauj: Audrey Hepburn thiab Jacqueline Kennedy.
- Coco Chanel, tus tsim ntawm Chanel zam lub tsev, muaj qhov tsis muaj tseeb ntawm kev txhim kho European kab lis kev cai. Ua qauv qhia "luxurious simplicity" hauv nws tus kheej tsim.
Nws hloov tawm tias nws tsis yog rau tsis muaj dab tsi uas muaj suab nrov thiab mloog ib puag ncig cov khaub ncaws haute couture. High fashion yog khawv koob thiab originality.
